Portomarin is a traditional tapas restaurant, prominently located on Plaza de Lavapies. Dark woods and tile abound for a simple look, somewhere between casual and upscale. As with most tapas places, depending on where you stay, the food portions and prices vary. At the large bar area that fronts the restaurant is where standing crowds enjoy canas and tapas. At the tables by the bar or in the large dining room in the back are more likely groups eating the larger raciones.
In retrospect, the bar would have been best but this was our first tapas place during a first trip to Spain, with little research ahead of time. So we took a table seat instead and ordered beer, which got us large mugs (learning to order canas came later). Then it was ordering from the raciones menu, which has classic tapas of many types of seafood (often fried or a la plancha), cured meats and cheeses, morcilla and chorizo, some soups and stews, salads, and more.
Being less practiced with our Spanish at this point, we pointed. By the time we reached our third item, our waiter dramatically paused, shook his head vigorously, and gestured for us to stop where we were.
As we discovered, raciones are the largest size of their dishes (as opposed to the smaller media or even smaller tapas). Even sharing a raciones between two is stretching it. The plate of pulpo a la vinagreta was enormous and generous, the octopus tender, fresh, and well-seasoned. The calamares was a pile of huge, thinly breaded rings, but too chewy. And even though he knew we ordered plenty, our waiter added a complementary tapas-sized plate of marinated octopus with peppers and onions (also tasty).
Decent tapas in a simple, straightforward restaurant, and wait staff tolerant of some ignorance on the part of foreign customers. read more