A Michelin Star recipient in its first year, the second awarded in 2020 and since retained,…read moreRestaurant Jordnær is an ambitious project from Chef Eric Kragh Vildgaard and wife Tina who set out to create a "Down to Earth" fine dining concept where Food and service exist in perfect harmony.
Part of the charming Gentofte municipality near Copenhagen, just twenty minutes by train, Jordnær dates back to Vildgaard's teen years when cooking gave clarity to troubled youth, his wife and mother of six children described as "someone to live for" serving as front-of-house manager who also greets guests and even answers e-mails.
Part of ARP-Hansen Hotel Group's Gentofte Hotel, though nothing about Jordnær feels like a "Hotel Restaurant," it is after greetings from Tina that guests are led to a room both simple and elegant featuring light colors, glass, traditional lamps and a fireplace.
Sharpened by three years at noma, though Eric's cooking expands well past fermentation and foraging in favor of ideal Ingredients that sometimes come from outside Scandinavia, opening bites are best enjoyed with Champagne and range from a delicate King Crab Bonbon or Lobster and Roe in a Tuile to a Tart of silky Tuna topped by a spoonful of Ossetra Imperial Caviar.
Completely meat-free, though Eric is not a pescatarian, Jordnær's Rosset Waffle has become something of a signature piped with Fjord Shrimp Mousse beneath more Caviar while a Scallop skewered over White Currant Juice and its follow-up of "Langoustine Essence" are each two faultless bites then gone.
Assertive with Oysters in a bath of Horseradish and Dill, then pulling the reins with Panna Cotta featuring Asparagus, Grapefruit and Lobster, Caviar makes another appearance as the Vildgaards' favorite Beluga Sevruga variety eaten in several spoonfuls amidst Miso and Black Currant Wood Oil.
Never pretentious, Tina and Eric both presenting plates to each table even with Michelin starred Chefs dining alongside their spouses nearby, Amberjack arrives curled on clear glass awaiting Ponzu prior to housemade Bread plus Butter churned nearby.
Taking no shortcuts, slowly cooked Turbot showing mother-of-pearl luminescence beneath a thin layer of truffled Farce, the Langoustine used previously for its essence soon arrives whole in warm Sauce before a sizable Takoyaki intended to be bitten in half with Truffle and Caviar consumed before using the bottom as a sponge on the plate.
Well portioned with timely service, staff adapting to a diner's speed without a hitch, Dessert begins via smooth Mousse atop Berries before proceeding to a ring of herbal Custard and "Chamomile, Milk, Honey" that replicates a Honeycomb's appearance so accurately that one wonders if it is 3D printed.
Not done yet, Mignardises highlighted by French classics and a warm Custard Tart served with Coffee or Tea clipped tableside, a final charming moment amongst dozens occurs as Tina leads guests to the exit and presents them with Bread, Butter and a signed Thank You note along with the menu.
