Mugaritz was one of the best and worst fine dining experiences I have had in a long time.
Let's start with the good: Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz is an amazing artist. I tasted flavors and experienced ideas I had never had before when at Mugaritz. Some of the dishes were unusual, wildly creative, weird in a good and adventurous way, and inspirational. I particularly enjoyed "Hake, milk threads", "Warm cloud of roe", "Cooked meringue of flaxseed and cheese", "A thousand leaves...", "Kombucha mother and strawberries", and more. The food is delicious, original, and world-class.
There were some misses for us, but that makes sense. The kitchen has nearly sixty plates ready for an evening, and then each table gets a subset of these (we got 19 savory courses, 1 cheese, and five desserts). With so many plates being made, flavors being explored, and experimentation happening, there are going to be some things that don't work or don't work for specific people. For example, I enjoyed "Rib and "soup" bread", but my fiancé thought it was one of the worst things she had ever tasted. "A minus ten" she called it, but even she was willing to give them a pass on a course or two given the diversity of the menu.
Overall, I cannot recommend the food enough.
The service on the other hand was a disaster and is clearly dragging Chef's excellent food down. Our experience was practically ruined.
Put another way, the food is nearly the best in the world -- far more mature and interesting than some Michelin three stars -- while the service is some of the worst I've experienced at any fine dining restaurant. Everyone seems to focus on the idea that Chef is snubbed by Michelin because of his unusual and experimental food, but a lot of three stars have unusual, experimental food with an ever changing menu. The problem here is simple: the front of the house is just not up to the highest standards.
Poor wine service
Our wine service was particularly bad. There was no single atrocious error, but many that added up to a very bad experience. We were approached about sparkling wine when we arrived but they only had one option available. Soon after that the Sommelier arrived but couldn't really give us any guidance (and seemed annoyed we wanted any), which is absolutely necessary given the unique way the menu works -- you get a huge subset of a very large list of dishes with no knowledge ahead of time. The kitchen knew what we were eating (we were flashed our service card by the maître d) but the Somm simply had no idea what was on our menu, which seems like a prerequisite for offering us advice. It seems like he needed to do a little homework before approaching our table for a drink order.
After that got worked out, we shared on our wine preferences and agreed upon a pairing of sorts.
From there, things didn't go well. We went without wine for several courses throughout the meal, which is unusual and we could tell that the food runners and wait staff were surprised and annoyed (not at us) when we had empty wine glasses (although they wouldn't clear them). We had a wine delivered and poured without a taste that was against our stated preferences. Worst, we got 60-90 ml pours and were charged full glass prices (150 ml).
End of our meal service
The end of our meal went incredibly slowly. The other two tables in our section were sat before usand thus finished earlier. Once they left, we were practically ignored. The last course took forever to get delivered to our table -- the previous 24 being quite snappy. After that, we waited nearly thirty minutes before we could get anyone's attention to deliver the check as everyone focused on clearing empty tables in other sections of the restaurant.
Service generally
The service was incredibly impersonal. It was casual, which is fine. Being from California we are use to a more casual fine dining experience (e.g. Saison, Meadowood) and we enjoy that. That wasn't the problem: it was that no one ever really engaged with us. We weren't made to feel welcome. Lest that seems like a language problem, several people spoke English incredibly well and I've even felt much more warmth at some places where no one speaks English (which I absolutely don't mind).
On language, because they send a rotating cast of people to your table, we were repeatedly asked whether we wanted to get the description in English -- maybe ten times over the course of the meal. I've seen places pick up on the fact that my fiancé is left-handed and choreograph every person on the staff to flip her settings, so the idea that Murgiritz couldn't communicate to each other about our language preferences seemed bizarre.
For the price, I have trouble recommending the experience to anyone but perhaps you may be willing to overlook the service to experience some of the most innovative food available anywhere in the world. read more