According to the restaurant's website, their name comes "from the Hawaiian saying, E Mālama Pono, which means to take care of, also until we meet again." Though the staff was gracious and attentive while navigating a small space and a nearly full house, the kitchen still has some things of their own to take care of in order to live up to their full potential.
The menu features an interesting and eclectic selection of Asian fusion dishes, and there were far more intriguing items than two of us could try on one visit -- still, nearly everything we ordered was somewhat lacking. We started off strong with drinks: My traditional Mai Tai had a nice flavor without being overly sweet; my wife's Sunset Sangria WAS fairly sweet, but that's how she likes her drinks, and she was very happy. One thing to note: their liquor license has only recently been approved, and their website still says they do not have a full bar -- they'd do themselves a favor by updating the website, as the fun drinks will be a draw.
Okay, so drinks were good, but our starter of Garlic Naan with Tzatziki Sauce was disappointing. The bread was really pita, not naan, and there was no presence of garlic whatsoever. Basically, it was warm pita with a touch of salt, so not at all what we were expecting, and not what we would have ordered if we'd known what was coming. Still, the tzatziki sauce was flavorful and fresh. Would have gone well with garlic naan.
For an entree, my wife ordered the Horseradish Crusted Mahi Mahi, which is plated with Pineapple Beurre Blanc, Blistered Tomatoes, Roasted Pineapple, Scallion Relish and Shoyu Syrup, and served with a side of white rice. This was a heavily layered dish that was far too sweet for me, but my wife quite liked the flavor. Underneath the many adornments, the fish was fresh and cooked to a very pleasing texture, and I might have enjoyed this in a more savory preparation.
My own entree was the Malama Mochiko Chicken: crispy fried thigh meat with a Ponzu Shoyu and Tomato Ginger Sauce. The crispy batter had a pleasing crunch but very little taste; the Ponzu Shoyu had a deep, earthy flavor, but there was just too little of it served on the plate -- there needed to be much more clinging to the chicken, or the batter needed more punch, or both. The other sauce placed to the side, the Tomato Ginger, tasted mostly like a generic sweet chili dipping sauce, and I only used it once. So, yes, the crispy chicken could be great, but really needs a seasoning upgrade.
I also ordered a side of the Macaroni Salad, because it's my favorite aspect of a Hawaiian plate lunch. Their version's macaroni was cooked to a spot-on texture, with just the right amount of al dente to hold up to the mayonnaise while still being primarily soft. The salad as a whole had the right creaminess (not too much mayo), but again lacked seasoning. I added some salt, which helped a bit, but it needed something else as well.
So, I like the concept of the restaurant and the descriptions of many of the dishes. The creativity and ambition are appealing. But right now, the execution just doesn't bring these ideas to life. Perhaps the chef (described as mostly self-taught) would benefit from consultation with one or two of the many excellent Asian chefs in the city, and I say that without meaning any insult. I'm optimistic they'll goose the flavors if they try, and so to Malama Pono I say, E Malama Pono: until we meet again.
PS. Having their valet priced $3 higher than the other restaurants with which they share the service is strange and makes a bad first impression. read more