This is a review of the restaurant only, an operation that opened in summer of 2023. (There's also an adjoining hotel and shop downstairs selling mountain bikes, x-country and downhill skis, and boards, well patrolled on one visit by silky-eared Nala, a very personable / dogable five-year-old pup.) Reservations are not accepted for groups of fewer than six, so there might be a bit of a wait on major holidays for smaller groups, but so far not at other times. Staff were professional, accommodating, and on top of their game.
TLDR: This newcomer has a very strong kitchen turning out well-executed mainstream options for pickier eaters and more inventive options for those who seek more culinary adventure. Service is fantastic and the low-key, casual ambiance is great for families. Pricing seemed quite fair to us
We enjoyed the well-designed drinks list with nicely made cocktails, excellent VT made beers, some wines by the glass and bottle, mocktails -- and food that was far more sophisticated and well executed than one might expect outside of a major city.
Dishes we tried over the course of multiple visits:
- PEI mussels of the day ($18) -- A large bowl of small to medium sized mussels in garlic and white wine sauce on our visit were fresh and sweet, served with a generous portion of excellent multigrain toast points.
- Jonny Cake and Dal (cauliflower puree, curried lentil dal, Johnny cake, garlic oil, cilantro; $12) -- This was a fascinating taste of diaspora. I'm not sure I would've called the lentil preparation a dal, but rather green lentils cooked to a softer consistency than lentils du puy usually are and left whole. There was a touch of cumin and coriander dominant garam masala that tasted as though it had been cooked directly into the lentils rather than added as part of a tadka as you'd typically see in Indian or even Caribbean preparations. The Johnny cake -- a gorgeously fried Caribbean version with hollow innards rather than the more pancake-like, cornmeal heavy American southern version -- resembled thick bhatura / poori. Even if it's hard to tie to a specific culinary tradition, the dish was comforting, well thought-out, and delicious.
- MadBush Wings (GF, NF, DF; pickled brined wings, carrots, celery; 6 for $12) were a bit tough per the boys who ordered them, though nicely seasoned with our chosen Buffalo seasoning. They weren't very crusty by nature, but I loved that they were not overly oily, either.
- Nutty Pedals Salad (DF; greens, grilled chicken, pickled grapes, crispy rice noodles, cucumber, peanut, soy sesame dressing; $18) -- MadBush must serve one of the best salads in the MRV area right now. (I also like the salad with crispy quinoa currently on offer at Rumble's.) The grapes -- lightly pickled in cucumber dill pickle brine I think? -- were a zippy, cool pop of flavor, the crispy rice noodles a pop of texture. They played very nicely with the tender, moist grilled chicken and greens (slightly overly dressed in our book, but that's a nitpick / personal preference).
- The Children's menu offering of "Actually Awesome Cauliflower" (caramelized cauliflower, cumin honey; $12) was indeed awesome, a gorgeously browned eighth of a head of tender cauliflower served with some carrot and cucumber crudites on the side. This was such a nice combo of sweet and savory, which the kiddos ate without complaint. Next time, the grownups want to try the grownup version on the regular menu (Honey Cumin cauliflower, which comes with the addition of feta and walnuts as well).
- Cody Sandwich (Boyden Farm braised short rib, caramelized onion horseradish aioli, gruyere, Red Hen sourdough, jus; $23) -- The short rib was moist, tender, and beautifully seasoned, jus a liquid gold.
- Old School Chicken (Statler chicken breast, crispy potatoes, pan roasted green beans, maple butter; $29) was indeed old school, a well-made, classic, unfussy preparation of moist, Statler-cut chicken, fingerling potatoes, and green beans roasted with a great deal of garlic and some textural bite remaining.
- Slammin' Salmon (6oz ancho crusted salmon, creamy cauliflower puree
harrisa honey roasted carrots, braised spinach; $32) was very well prepared, a generous cut of flawlessly fresh salmon pan fried skin-side down until the skin had crisped. Tender, garlic-heavy, braised spinach was a great foil for the same sweet, mellow cauliflower puree that accompanied other dishes and slightly spicy salmon.
Our takeaway: Madbush Falls is a gem. Ingredients are top notch and execution surpasses / matches any other kitchen we know of in the area, including well known ones in Waterbury. What a fantastic addition to the Mad River Valley! We're evangelizing. Even if it makes it harder for us to dine here, this restaurant deserves success and we want to see it for many, many future years. read more