M Tempura's kaiseki (Japanese multi-course dinner) was one of the best dining experiences we've had in the Triangle. It's ideal for a romantic date, special occasion, or if you just want to treat yourself and indulge. The food and service were outstanding. That's all you need to know. For details, keep reading.
The restaurant opened in October 2018 in downtown Durham, across from city hall. I suggest parking in the nearby Chapel Hill Street Parking Garage at 326 E Chapel Hill St. At the time of writing this, parking there costs $2.25 per hour, Monday-Friday, 8am-7pm. Otherwise, it's free.
M Tempura is part of M Restaurants, named after Korean-American chef-owner Michael Lee. He started with M Sushi in January 2016. M Sushi has the best sushi in the Triangle, in my opinion. Then came M Kokko (September 2016), M Tempura, M Pocha (June 2019), M Sushi Cary (September 2022), and M Test Kitchen (April 2023). The latter two are located in Cary's Fenton mixed-use development. The rest are in Durham. These restaurants really helped elevate the Triangle dining scene.
M Tempura is a small restaurant with a low-key, intimate atmosphere. The bar and dining room share the same space. That said, it doesn't feel cramped in here unlike M Kokko. The ambiance here is nicer.
This place is popular. It got completely full during our Saturday visit. Book your reservation using OpenTable. Unfortunately, I didn't get any dining points from M Tempura. I did get the standard 100 points each from M Sushi and M Pocha. What up with that?
I found the name "M Tempura" to be a bit misleading because the restaurant offers way more than just tempura. Only one of the 10 courses in our kaiseki was tempura. During our visit, they offered a $38 tempura tasting as well as tempura a la carte ($4-14 each). There was also an "M Omakase" menu ($75/person) similar to, but not as involved as, the kaiseki ($127/person).
Here's what our kaiseki consisted of:
* Course 1: Sakizuki (amuse bouche) - NC grass-fed bison tartare, egg yolk, black truffles, sunchoke
* Course 2: Otsukuri (sashimi/raw dish) - chef's choice sashimi of the day; for us, it was chutoro
* Course 3: Ni-mono (steamed dish) - chawanmushi, steamed egg custard, crab, ponzu, trout roe, walnut oil
* Course 4: Atsu-mono (warm dish) - scallop from Hokkaido, Japan, curried cauliflower puree, kaluga caviar
* Course 5: Age-mono (tempura/fried) - pink prawns (my substitute was eel), lobster, maitake, asparagus
* Course 6: Sui-mono (soup/broth) - shabu-shabu, dashi, ponzu sauce; we were served Hawaiian amberjack and sea bream
* Course 7: Yaki-mono (grilled dish) - Wagyu "pave" (a.k.a. "flake steak"), soy-cured egg yolk
* Course 8: Shokuji (rice/meal) - blue crab hand roll (my substitute was a tuna tartare with tobiko hand roll), ikura, miso soup
* Course 9: Pre-Dessert - monaka, foie gras, persimmon, Fruity Pebbles; paired with complimentary sauternes
* Course 10: Dessert - chef's choice ice cream -- yuzu mango ice cream topped with raspberry sorbet
Drinks
* Born "Gold" Junmai Daiginjo Sake (8 oz carafe for $25)
* Glass of the Santiago Ruiz, Albarino, Pontevedra, Spain (5 oz for $15)
Every course was delicious, equally fantastic, and gorgeously presented. It was evident that each course was well thought out and carefully executed. The food quality was fresh and superb.
Something I appreciated was the substitutions because of my crustacean allergy (see Courses 5 and 8). They weren't afterthoughts. In fact, my wife admitted she was jealous of the tempura eel substitute I received instead of prawns.
The tempura was terrific. It was "authentic" tempura where you could actually taste the ingredients. The batter was light and crispy, and enhanced - not overwhelmed - the seafood and veggies. The tempura and other courses came with cute and fun dining accessories. Examples included lemon juicers that looked like fish (for the tempura) and little golden spoons that matched the small chawanmushi bowls.
The chawanmushi was phenomenal. Umami to the max, and the temperature and consistency were perfect. The Wagyu "pave" "flake steak" was unique in the how we were able to press our steaks down into ultra thin slices. How'd they do that?
The shabu-shabu course had some firsts for us. First, the plates bended in half at 90 degrees. Second, the boiling flame hot pots had paper linings in the broths. We've never seen that before.
Though not uncommon on prix fixe menus, we liked that there were two desserts. The monaka with foie gras and Fruity Pebbles was certainly creative and interesting! It hit me with all sorts of flavors and textures. The dessert wine was a nice touch.
If M Tempura has a weakness, it's drinks. They don't have any cocktails.
Service was excellent. We had a party of four and the courses were paced comfortably with no hiccups. Our server (Woolim?) was great. She was friendly and knowledgeable. She let us sample both wine and sake before we committed to purchasing.