When you love a food, sometimes it's good to step back and think about why.
One reason is that it can be a badge of place and belonging. That's how I love smoked brisket: shiny, leather-y outside, marbled like a dirty secret on the inside, smoked for the better part of a day. While my parents fed my congee at home, I was figuring out how to exist as a clearly 'other' person in South Texas-- "Do you see in widescreen?", "No, where are you REALLY from?", and other shitty tropes most Asian-Americans will have heard on the regular. Eating brisket, knowing when it's good, loving it, was like saying, "I don't look like you, but I'm from here too."
So why do I love ramen? A little tougher. The first time I really thought about ramen was when I saw the movie "Tampopo," which included this tongue-in-cheek scene of how to eat a bowl of ramen (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9m6FoSw4jE):
"First, observe the whole bowl. Appreciate its gestalt. Savor the aromas. Jewels of fat glittering on the surface... Concentrate on the three pork slices...First caress the surface with the chopstick tips."
"What for?"
"To express affection.
"I see."
"Then poke the pork."
"Eat the pork first?"
"No. Just touch it. Caress it with the chopstick tips... What's important here is to apologize to the pork by saying, 'See you soon.'"
I read "Tampopo" as a celebration of food and community. I think ramen for me is a crystallization of the idea that you can make joy, put it in a bowl with a soft-boiled egg, and transfer it to humans sitting in a restaurant. Something that sublimes the bittersweet background of my other food loves. But great ramen, like great brisket, takes love to make and is hard to track down.
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M Kokko is Mike Lee's latest joint, slipped right next to M Sushi and just an alley down from the more a more recognizable neighbor: The Durham Hotel. The small space is matched by a slim, curated, and often-changing menu that celebrates the humble chicken. My focus and excitement is on the ramen...
... which is, hey, pretty good!! The chicken and pork based broth, the soul of the bowl, packs a balanced bunch. The squiggly noodles-- and I do prefer my ramen noodles quite squiggly!-- were a welcome and resilient chewiness. Two other must-haves in the soft-boiled egg and chashu pork served their role admirably, although I found myself wishing for fattier, softer cuts of pork, rather then chop-like piece that is currently being served. The tangling pile of cilantro I complained about before has been removed, yay! But, the devil is in the details. I still think the bowl is a little unbalanced. A mess of bamboo shoots is left after the noodles is gone (too many!) and the spicy ramen came with a level of 'ma la' (numbing spice) that obliterated the delicate savoriness of the broth. For now, I recommend getting the normal ramen, and using the handy chili oil that is provided on the table. But -- this is still the best ramen you will find in Durham, maybe the Triangle!! I trust this small kitchen will get it right soon.
New to the menu is 'Jjiajang men.' This dish originates from Shandong China ('zhajiangmian,' literally 'fried sauce noodles'), but has also been adopted for Korea when turmoil led people in China to seek work and refuge in Korea. What I was craving was the Chinese variety, but no matter -- what you'll find here is the Korean-inspired variety, with black rather than yellow beans. In whatever country you find it, this dish is synonymous with "comfort food," but isn't very common in the West yet! Think of it as a spaghetti analog. I was stoked to see it here, but I don't recommend it in its current state. The black bean casings didn't work for me taste- and texture-wise; I'd like to see the beans as the more traditional paste. I loved the julienned cucumbers on top: a traditional dose of crispy freshness with this dish.
And finally, a quick note that the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich is a revelation. It's battered almost in the style of fish & chips: airy and light. It also comes with delightfully simple tossed arugula.
I'm incredibly delighted to find a great bowl of ramen in Durham, a place I'm still trying to make home, that I can love. Don't forget to to poke the pork. I look forward to seeing what else Chef Lee & friends cook up!
P.S. Don't forget to grab a ramen noodle refill for $2. read more