Leeds Seventeen used to be a scruffy pub on the edge of an estate (formerly the Allerton), now it's a bijou brasserie style bar and grill on the edge of an estate, albeit still only a stones throw away from some of the most expensive houses in Yorkshire.
This place appeared to have a bit of an identity crisis when I first visited in September, or at least they did their best to confuse a little. They seemed to be going by two names - Leeds Seventeen (as in the post code) and Northern Soul Food, a gimmicky monicker that evokes images of a smokey jazz bar transplanted from New Orleans, it isn't.
But I see what they're trying to do here. The Northern part because they've sourced nearly all their food locally; Whitby crab, Swaledale cheese, Dewsbury rhubarb and so on. The soul part tries to persuade us that it's not just some sweaty chef fighting flak in the kitchen and screaming obscenities at his minions; it's a master craftsman lovingly preparing and massaging your chargrilled steak before it arrives on your plate. I won't begrudge them the 'Northern Soul Food' thing, it's kind of there and there's a genuine interest in making sure you enjoy your visit.
You might have accused them of taking the local produce idea to the extreme with Leeds produced wine sitting proudly on top of the wine list, but it's actually worth a try and very ameniable.
It's over six months ago since I went but I do remember the food being well prepared and, importantly for a neighbourhood diner, substantial. You don't want to come home from work hungry, pop out for a quick bite to eat and come back still hungry do you? My steak, whose origins I can't quite remember, could not be faulted and my companions wolfed down their roast lamb loin and posh fish and chips. It all sounds like simple fare - it is but the dishes are also accompanied by the likes of sweet onion confit and smoked salmon lardons.
Leeds Seventeen's signature desert, their treacle sponge is light, rich and served in a Tate & Lyle Golden Syrup tin - another gimmick but it does bring a smile to the face of those who are about to receive.
This is my nearest eaterie but I haven't been back yet; this is no reflection on my experience of Leeds Seventeen, I'm just saving my return trip for a special occassion. read more