Visited Vice and Virtue in Leeds as an alternative to The Man Behind The Curtain with the hope that broader fine dining options could allow more variety when visiting the city.
The venue is intriguing as a former strip club and adds character to the restaurant. The restaurant is decorated in a 1930s vibe with jazz and blues music playing in background which contributes to the overall atmosphere. Tables are far enough away from each other for privacy. The ambiance was somewhat spoiled by a wine fridge in a corner at the end of the restaurant and an open kitchen which didn't really seem to have too much behind it.
Service was extremely friendly although perhaps a bit over eager in its politeness to the point that it felt forced. Not a complaint but rather a constructive opinion.
Menu options included a 5, 7 or 10 course tasting menu. We went for the 7 courses which seemed a happy medium.
Before the first course, we were presented with a gyoza which was tasty with a hint of lemongrass although nothing special. Living in Asia, gyoza are easily found in the supermarket freezer section and do not taste vastly different. Although I'm nitpicking, on the basis that everything should be done right, it should be pronounced "ghee-oh-za" not "geye-oh-za". On top of the gyoza was a pea stalk which didn't really seem to add much but turned out to make an appearance in numerous courses that followed.
The first course was Heritage Tomato Salad, with olives, black truffle oil, goats cheese and croutons. We were told that the tomatoes came from the chef's Mother's allotment, which was nice touch - it's always good to know that ingredients are sourced locally. This dish was a highlight. The different tomatoes provided texture and it achieved a summery tangy flavour which was wholesome yet refreshing. Delicious!
Next was Whitby Crab Salad with miso, carrot and orange, leek (all in the form of purée) and game chips. Another delicious course and beautifully presented. Although I am sure it wasn't, I couldn't help wonder if the crab came from a can. Pea stalks made their second appearance and again didn't really add anything to the plate.
Black Pudding Pakora followed with parkin, rhubarb gel, pea purée, whiskey smoke and scallop. The plate was brought to the table with a glass dome over it full of smoke which allowed for a dramatic introduction to the dish. Again, beautifully and artistically presented. I like that a Yorkshire touch was given to the course with parkin crumbs. The black pudding seemed to be over cooked and almost burned to a cinder in some parts to the extent that it was brittle and crumbled on contact with the fork. I'm not sure if it was supposed to be like this or not as it still tasted good with the accompaniments on the plate. Overall a dominant flavour as would be expected from the black pudding but not really hitting the mark. Again pea stalks made an unnecessary guest appearance on the plate.
Course four was salmon with vanilla mayo, baby beets, caviar and wheatberry salad. Again, top marks for artistic presentation with a burst of different colours on the plate and the obligatory vanilla mayo drops spread around the plate. All very tasty with complimentary flavours. The salmon might have been slightly over cooked but not a deal breaker. The lack of pea stalks was welcomed.
Organic sous vide sirloin was the final "savoury" course and was accompanied by foraged herbs, red cabbage, coquina, pickled beetroot, oyster mushrooms and mustard. Surprisingly the sirloin was buffalo - a first for me. Unfortunately if I hadn't been told it was buffalo, I would have thought it was beef and couldn't really tell any difference even with the knowledge. Another artistic plate with puréed veg and intentionally placed drops of sauce. On my first cut of the buffalo, it seemed that it was going to be tough and chewy but luckily it was a perfectly tender cut that was cooked just to the right amount of pinkness. The foraged herbs which provided a crust around the buffalo were dominated by oregano which prevented a full appreciation of the meat flavour. Pea stalks...
And onto dessert. Round one was a sticky toffee cake topped with vanilla and a raspberry gel together with ice cream and meringue. Not an impressive start to the sweets with cake lacking anything special and reminding me of the type of cake found behind clear plastic flaps in motorway service station restaurants. Well presented though. The second dessert was dark chocolate and rose brownie with brittle, hazelnut, praline, salted chocolate ice cream and bilberry. All very tasty in a read more