Had it not been for a local friend from China dragging me here, it would have been easy to dismiss Le Celeste Gourmand as a faux-Chinese restaurant in a trendy district meant for non-Chinese tastebuds, let alone Parisian ones. My friend, a Parisian in his own right of nearly a decade, hails from the Hunan province in China where topics of Mao Zedong, tall mountains, and supposedly the spiciest regional cuisine in the country exist. His claims of Le Celeste Gourmand's ability to replicate the Hunan spice was questionable in my mind, but I soon learned to his palate was a far better judge than I.
And just like all things life - one should never judge a book by it's cover, as the place was packed with virtually all Chinese clientele. Some might be tourists, but I gathered a majority of them were Chinese locals living in Paris, all with a hankering for something that reminded them of home and while enjoying regional flavor in a city not known for it's distinct choices in Chinese cuisine.
The restaurant feels like a small cafe, with little space and simple decor. Just like all small restaurants in Europe, they manage to deceivingly fit large groups of people with creative uses of combining tables and maximizing round tables. My group of 18 was able to fit semi-comfortably in the space, which is never easy at any establishment.
And in the end, my friend was right. The food was of high caliber and the spiciness from the culmination of it all had many of my dining companions panting after every bite. Hunan specialties of Kou Shui Ji (Mouthwatering Chicken), Mapo Tofu, Xian Chao La Zhu Mo (Fresh Spicy Ground Pork), Sauteed Bok Choy, and Qie Sha Zhu Ruo (Eggplant and Pork) were sensational, with plenty of spice to boot. Non-spiceheads beware, be sure to ask the wait staff for their recommendations.
Though the final tally of the bill felt a bit pricey for Chinese food, I'm quickly reminded that there aren't too many restaurants like this in these parts and I'm in Paris after all. The Euro's ability to trump the US dollar and the Chinese RenMinBi was somewhat painfully felt when all was said and done. Each dish was hovering somewhere between 9-16 Euros, which for European standards, I imagine is reasonable.
But the question begs, is this place worth trying again? Oui and Oui.
Le Celeste Gourmand is further proof quality Asian food doesn't have be had in the Quarter Chinois, but more importantly represents a side of China that is often overlooked and under appreciated. I am willing to bet Mao himself would've given this place a thumbs up. read more