Lantern has been on my radar every since I moved to NC, and for good reason - the place get's all the love from the New York Times, Travel & Leisure, and was named to the "Top 50 Restaurants" by Gourmet Magazine. Enough with the hype already! The stars aligned a few weeks ago (I found a babysitter) so on short notice my wife and I decided to check it out.
From the outside, Lantern is unassuming and you might mistake it for another barber shop. Strolling in with blue Jeans and no reservation, we were pleasantly surprised to learn we could be seated in 90 minutes, which was no problem because there are plenty of boutiques, bars, and niche retailers close by to chew some time. We sifted through old vinyls at the retro record shop a block east, and then returned to Lantern 60 minutes later to discover that our table was ready a little early.
The contemporary setting features clean lines, soft lighting, mirrors, and large Asian inspired oils. The noise level was mezzo-piano when we arrived at 7pm, but quickly crescendoed into a forte within the hour, seemingly in parallel with the drink production rolling off the bar. Our waiter greeted us and introduced the cocktail menu which contained a short list of interesting elixirs' such as "Milk of Human Kindness" and "The Cunning Kimono". My wife ordered the "Junebug" (Pimms, fresh ginger, lemon soda and cucumber) which starts sweet then ends with a crisp cucumber finish. My "Strange Acquaintance" (Whisky, ruby port, lemon, Blenheim spicy ginger ale and egg white) was a bit more broad and spicy. Both were delicious and left us mildly intoxicated. We sobered up with "Seasonal vegetable spring rolls" and a juvenile contest involving copious amounts of hot mustard. The deep-fried rolls were piping hot and the veggie internals were crisp and fresh.
Lantern's menu proclaims to be "a marriage of Asian flavors and North Carolina ingredients sourced mainly from local farms and fisheries". Although the menu is somewhat small (7-8 entrees at most), the selection changes regularly and there seems to be something for every type whether carnivore, herbivore or pesco-lover. I ordered the "Fried whole North Carolina catfish with chilies, garlic, tamarind, fresh lime leaf, carrot salad and jasmine rice" and it surpassed each of my expectations in flavor, texture, temperature and aesthetics. The fish was lightly breaded and fried, and contrasted nicely with the cool carrot salad. The jasmine rice was aromatic and steamed to perfection - setting a new high watermark for me in how rice should be cooked. My wife's loot was equally delicious - the "Moon-viewing hotpot with homemade Anson Mills soba noodles with black trumpet mushrooms, fresh bamboo, local vegetables and a poached Fickle Creek Farm egg" . Breaking with Asian tradition, we fully consumed both entrees.
After some intense deliberation over the dessert menu and no easy decision in sight, our waiter convinced us to try the "Local Sourwood honey panna cotta with L'Hoste Meyer lemon caramel, honeycomb and organic kiwi". We could literally taste history in this confectionary delight while our waiter lectured us on the origins and local significance of Sourwood honey.
The food and drink at Lantern is exceptional, but the service also sets it apart. The wait staff is extremely knowledgeable yet unpretentious. Execution was near flawless with perfectly timed dish pickups and drink refills, but not overly-intrusive. Even for a top culinary destination such as Chapel Hill, it's hard to find this level of knowledge and service.
Overall, I must opine that the hype is legitimate and Lantern Restaurant is the real deal. Now, if I can just find another baby-sitter. read more