Located on the old SS1, a couple of miles out of Pisa centre, towards the Pisa North motorway tollgate. Well worth the trip out of town to avoid the tourist traps around the Tower.
The old boy who runs it will be found by the bar on arrival. He will potter out to shake your hand, then hand you over to Enrico, who will take you to your table. Inside or out, the tables are beautifully laid. It reached 40 degrees last week in Pisa, so we sat in a shady place in the garden. Chef will usually come out and tell you what's fresh today; take his advice and you cannot go wrong. On this occasion it was fresh baby squid sauteed with wild mushrooms, followed by a branzino done on a bed of potatoes in the oven. They make their own olive oil, and you are given copious quantities of assorted breads to go with it.
If you are driving you'll have to refuse the complimentary grappa at the end of the meal. Have a strong coffee on the terrace instead. read more