This little gem is located in the tiny village of Orfes, which is not as far out of the way as it may look on a map, but navigation there does require an up to date GPS or high quality map. The house specialty is duck, which is farmed in the village and served up in every delicious preparation imaginable, as well as some that you have almost certainly never thought of. The restaurant itself is on the second floor of one of the old stone buildings in the main (only?) village square. The setup is very simple, with basic table settings and (slightly uncomfortable) wooden chairs. Tables are arranged amongst three different open areas connected by archways and the original stone walls are decorated with a vast array of historical curios (the high voltage triple pull switch was my personal favourite for both form and sheer randomness) and newspaper/magazine cuttings about the restaurant.
I recommend that you share starters, which include the phenomenal "onion cake" (possibly better described as a caramelised onion flan). I could eat nothing but this for my entire holiday and leave Catalonia a very happy man. Whatever you do, do not order fewer than one per 3 or 4 people and be prepared to order another one just for yourself once you taste it. Other favourites include the mini fava bean and duck confit salad, the duck and forrest fruit salad, and the celery and endive salad with roquefort ice cream.
No less than five different duck preparations are on offer as main dishes, along with other hearty meats like roast lamb shoulder, stuffed lamb leg (what it is stuffed with I can't recall, but it definitely includes mint and possibly anchovies?), rabbit with raisins and pine nuts and wild boar. There are also two or three fish dishes that I'm sure are fine but have never tried myself. As a general rule, this isn't really a destination of choice for vegetarians (though a pescetarian could eat here reasonably happily if you have one amongst you). I'm always tempted to try one of the non-duck dishes, but the duck is so good that I can never bring myself to do it. Between us, I think we tried every preparation they have: braised with figs, confit with apple, half a small duck with orange, magret with raspberry sauce and carpaccio with assorted toppings (I don't remember what exactly). All dishes received universally high praise and all plates with sauces were mopped clean using the fresh bread placed in the middle of the table for just such a purpose.
The jovial owner/server goes about his business with a reasonably laissez faire but not uncaring or inattentive attitude and gets somewhat bemused when you ask for an explanation of a dish, mainly because what you see written on the menu is pretty much exactly what you get. For those who need it, he does not really speak much English, but the whole menu is available in English that is surprisingly well translated and accurate compared to other restaurants in the region. If no one in your party happens to speak Catalan (thankfully not a problem for us on this particular evening), he will begrudgingly engage you in just enough broken Castellano to get the point across, though he will not let it detract from his good natured service.
There is a fairly decent wine selection and the local muscat and port-like wines served on the tables in big bottles with desert (no extra charge) round off the meal rather nicely. The deserts themselves include a range of typical Catalan sweets (all that we tried were very well made) as well as selection of very tasty ice creams, sorbets and frozen yoghurts (belgian yoghurt with red currants and fudge ice cream with sea salt were particular favourites).
Dinner is very good value, with most mains coming in at between €10 and €15 and starters priced around the €7-8 mark. Definitely worth the little excursion for an extremely tasty meal that you are unlikely to find anywhere else in the region. For those who wish to visit at lunch time, you can explore the village (this will take a matter of minutes) and there is a very pleasant walk that you can do either before or after your meal (www.charmingvillas.net/blog/tag/la-barretina-dorfes/). read more