Kerry Tamura, Sakè Sommelier Extraordinaire & sales rep for World Sakè Imports…read morehttp://www.worldsake.com/,
created a rare occasion in L.A. where a tasting menu of Japanese dishes were paired with an appropriate Sakè (sah keh).
He facilitated a collaboration between Masumi Sakè Kura & Tsubaki which refers to Camellia japonica, a beautiful tree-bush w/ bright deep green, shiny evergreen leaves & multipetal rose-like flowers.
Tsubaki is an Izakaya which in Japanese fashion means small plates to nosh while drinking Sakè , Sho-chu- (show chew), or beer which is created by various microbreweries in Japan. Spanish Tapas bars would be the closest analog in Western cuisine.
0) Apéritif: Masumi Yumedono, "Mansion of Dreams" Daiginjo, Yamada Nishiki rice. Rich flavours of Nashi/Japanese apple-pears, chalky minerality, dulcet tones balanced by touch of dry bitterness. This may be a counterpart to the French Vins Doux Naturels.
1) Shima Aji/striped horsemackerel Sashimi which may be slightly aged to increase fish Umami, soft, moist, lush velvety, touch of fattiness. Elegant contrast of translucent white flesh edged by sunset rose & grey-black skin. Real grated Wasabi root.
1a) Miyasaka Yawaraka "Gentle Softness" Junmai. Lightly sweet, low alcohol, touch of toasty caramel, Sugi wood-like bouquet.
2) Amaèbi/sweet shrimp is Sta. Barbara spot prawns napped w/ sweet, earthy white Saikyo- Miso countered by acidic, citrus aromatic grapefruit. Crunchy heads are Kara Agè/fried in oil.
2a) Masumi Arabashiri "undiluted" Junmai Ginjo Nama "unpasteurized". Tongue tingly, lively, ripe melon.
3) Madai/sea bream is steamed, topped w/ burnished golden Sta. Barbara Uni. Like an Île Flotante, there is a sea of Ankakè/sauce Velouté w/ Yuzu/Japanese citrus & strands of crab meat.
3a) Masumi Nanago "number 7 yeast strain" Yamahai Junmai Daiginjo. Trace of Sugi wood bouquet, chalky, touch bitter, earthy rice taste, creamy.
4) Poussin/young chicken reminded me of Poulet de Bresse that I had at Paul Bocuse in Collonges au Mont d'Or. Slathered w/ Shio Ko-ji/salty Sakè lees & roasted.
The lush meat has chicken scented touch of gaminess while the skin gives a slight caramelized resistance. Bit of a sweet Sho-yu/soy sauce demi-glace is a sophisticated Teriyaki sauce. Tempura of Gobo-/burdock root. This may be the best of this series.
4a) Masumi Okuden "esoteric knowledge" Junmai was Atsukan/warm Sakè tasted of earthy rice, bit acidic, chocoate undertone.
5) Gyu-/beef roasted along w/ highly sweetened & thickened Hatcho- Miso sauce. Braised asparagus, mélange of mushrooms.
5a) Masumi SparklIng Junmai is created similar to the labour intensive French Méthode Champenoise. Faint cherry, raspberry, mushroom, minerality, bitterness.
Dessert:
6) Strawberries lightly marinated in liqueur. Dollop of what may be a yogurt-like Crème Fraîche sprinkled w/ Matcha powder.
I paired this w/ my left over Yumedono.
Thanks to Kerry, Mr. Katsuhiko Miyasaka of Masumi Sakè https://www.masumi.co.jp/english/, Courtney Kaplan & Chef Charles Namba of Tsubaki for an exquisite experience that lasted way beyond the stated closing of 10:30pm. It can be summarized by Omotè Nashi, "warm hearted hospitality". Arigato- Gozaimashita.