Victoria street in Richmond has some delicious and authentic Vietnamese food (and some not so delicious and not so authentic Westernised Asian food), well now you can also find some of the best Thai food in Melbourne there, tucked slightly off the main drag. Jinda Thai opened mid-2013 and has been building up a loyal following; you will find the place bustling and full most nights of the week (they do accept bookings, so get in quick).
Run by Premika Tanpapat, whose family also owns Krua Thai in Richmond and St Kilda, Jinda is able to capture both the authenticity of traditional Thai food, as well as putting their own contemporary spin on it. Once you step through the doors you instantly know this is not your usual Victoria street restaurant- a large warehouse, exposed brick and a high wooden ceiling with lanterns hanging down and portraits dotted around the room (including the serene gaze of grandmother Jinda).
As expected the drinks list is short and snappy, with a mix of local wines and Thai beers, although the $1 BYO wine means that Jinda can quickly become your go-to spot for a mid week meal on the cheap. Friends I have dined with love the Thai iced milk tea, whereas I lean more towards the coconut juice served with curls of tender coconut flesh to nibble on.
What good Thai food means to me is authenticity. I do not want any taming down of the chilli fire or tweaking of dishes to fit the 'local' palate, and Jinda nails it. The menu spans dishes that you will have seen on most Thai menus through to ones that rarely show up outside of Thailand. Prawn twisters are their variation of spring rolls; crisp pastry filled with minced prawn and aromatic coriander root. The gai hor bai toey are parcels of marinated chicken wrapped in pandan leaf, the effort of unwrapping the little parcels is worth it for the juicy morsels of meat inside.
The best starter for me has been the moo ping (also available as a main in the 'Grill' section of the menu), skewers of glistening marinated pork with a light char from the barbecue. The combination of the slightly sweet and salty marinade and a cut of pork with full flavour and texture makes this a stand-out dish. The added bonus is the woven basket of sticky rice on the side- sticky rice is something that I love and do not see often enough. I have fond memories of rolling balls of sticky rice between my fingers and dipping it into a pool of rich red curry sauce, so to find somewhere close to home with sticky rice, I was in heaven.
Moving into the larger dishes there are the familiar ones like green chicken curry, Jinda's version is well balanced with just the right amount of heat to the creamy sauce. One dish I often use as a benchmark at Thai restaurants is pad gra pow, a simple and perfect dish if executed well, but very easy to knock out of balance or to serve with a whimpering level of chilli. The version here is one of the best I have tried, the fragrant, almost licorice aroma of Thai basil lingers but does not overpower; the balance of sweet, salt and sour is spot-on; and, most importantly, it delivers a fiery chilli hit.
On my last visit the highlight was undoubtedly the barramundi; a large fillet, fried to crispy on the outside, but delicate and flaking on the inside. Served with a zesty and vibrant green apple salad, awash in Asian herbs and chilli, this was another dish that walked the tightrope of balance so well and never distracted from the beautiful barramundi.
One dish that you will likely not have seen before is the boat noodles, a Thai hawker classic, so named because it was traditionally eaten on the riverboats in Thailand. There are lots of decisions to make when it comes to the noodle soups: what type of broth (pork, beef), what protein and what type of noodle (variations of rice, egg or 'glass') and which size, small or large- whichever way you lean, it will be delicious. The boat noodles are unique because of the broth, thickened with pig blood, which might sound odd, but it adds a rich, hearty warmth to the dish- be brave and try it, you will not be disappointed.
Dessert is kept simple, maybe the old classic of banana fritter- I myself fall into the trap of scoffing at it, but it is a classic and when done well it can be good, as it is here. The most popular is the crêpe cake, an impossibly perfect stack of crêpes, layered with cream and then cut into wedges like a cake. It comes with various toppings, maybe a sauce of milk tea or fresh coconut, and ice cream on the side. It is rich, and a touch too sweet for me, but shared between friends it is a good way to end the meal.
A place like Jinda shows that you do not need to shy away from traditional and authentic Thai dishes or tame them down. Add a contemporary space, friendly service and an affordably priced menu and they are onto a winner, which is easy to see from the crowds swarming there. Do yourself a favour and get down there to try the boat noodles. read more