"Hi, I have a reservation at 9:00pm" I say warmly only to be met with a head shake, a step forward, and an ushering towards the exit.
"Il mio Italiano e terrible. Inglese?" I try again. Suddenly her face brightens. "Si" she says, laughs and welcomes my group in. The effort is appreciated. So begins one of the most memorable meals in Roma.
Note: This is the "Angry Cousin" trattoria featured on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations Rome.
Difficult to find (go by taxi). Very rustic and austere bordering on old BUT oh, such incredible pasta. Carbonara, Carbonara fiori di zucca, amatriciana How can dishes made of such few ingredients taste so incredible. Once you try them you will NEVER be able to eat the American counterparts.
The carbonara with its concentrated egg flavor blends perfectly with the earthy pecorino cheese and oil of the guanciale creating a complex creamy flavor that goes on and on. Add the zucchini flowers for the green, herbaceous sweetness. The rustic amatriciana with the extracted tomato sauce, perfect.
Other dishes worth mention; the braised tripe, braised oxtail, Tortino di carciofo (artichoke pie). Perfectly cooked and delicious.
Almost all the reviews posted by Romans on yelp and that "other review site" say the price is very high. About €35 per person inclusive of the house wine.
Note: the house wine matches the simple, flavorful food but is overly simple for most connoisseurs.
Is it worth seeking out? Definitely. Just remember, you're a guest, not a customer. Don't be a snob. Pour your own water and wine. Don't complain, Don't waste food. Unlike America, regardless if you paid for the food, Italians view not finishing everything you are served as wasteful.
Tip: do not eat the bread when it is brought to the table Use it only to mop up the pasta and meat sauces. Watch the face of the server brighten when they see you doing it the right way.
Very little English. Booking required. read more