My wife and I were luckily able to get a spot in Townhouse while in the 'Nish despite our lack of a…read morereservation, thanks to the poor weather and coming in at old people, early bird-esque hours. On the upside, we were there for a good stretch of happy hour!
The space is cozy, with a pub-like feel from the bar counter you can sit at, as well as a stunning main bar with lovingly detailed, darkly-stained wood. Dark wainscoting rings the room, but the charm of its previous tenants fades away from there, with a generic tile floor and basic acoustic tile ceiling.
We indulged in both the liquid and solid offerings on the happy hour menu, with the salt cod fritters ($9) a couple bucks under the regular menu price.
Being in town to try things out and not just go for the cheapest items, we ordered from the whole menu, tacking on the beet salad and burrata toast. We decided we'd re-assess our appetites after those three apps.
The beet salad ($10) was a colourful display of Nova Scotia's late harvest season, with beautiful, thin slices of purple, pink and golden beets. The kaleidoscope of root vegetables was topped with dots of whipped ricotta, blue cheese, popcorn and pea shoots. Delicate and lightly tart, with contrasting textures of the salty and smooth whipped ricotta and the airy crunch of the popcorn added dimensionality to the dish. Also, it's impossible to go wrong with pea shoots in my books!
As my wife isn't a big seafood fan, I had most of the salt cod fritters to myself, and I wasn't complaining. An herby, crisp exterior encased a pleasantly doughy and lightly fishy interior, which was amped up by the fantastic sun-dried tomato and chili oil.
The burrata toast ($14) didn't have a whole, massive blob of Italian cheesy goodness, but I should have guessed that would be the case given the price. A guy can dream, right?
Crisp buttery focaccia held up well to its caprese-like toppings - roasted tomatoes, pesto and, of course, a slathering of creamy burrata. Bee pollen was noted on the menu and visible on the toast, but didn't register amongst the other flavours.
After three very good starters, we decided that we had room for one main between the two of us, and landed on the ricotta gnocchi ($27).
I was pleasantly surprised when the plate was put before us, and I saw that the fluffy bundles of carbs and cheese were pan fried, lending a light crispness and more flavour.
Most gnocchi dishes aren't too meaty, but Townhouse had a decent portion of bresaola (dry-cured beef) and guanciale (cured pork cheek), letting the thinly-sliced, but big flavours, of the Italian cured meats punch above their weight.
Pesto and pea shoots reappeared to bring some vegetal balance to the dish, and a salty hit of Pecorino-Romano rounded things out nicely.
Not to be outdone by the savoury parts of the menu, Townhouse's desserts are far from an afterthought. The sticky toffee ($13) was wildly decadent, with the lightly spiced sponge cake begging to sop up the heavenly caramel cream sauce and French vanilla ice cream.
Although they could stand to invest in their interior design, Townhouse's kitchen speaks for itself and the well-deserved accolades it has received. A definite 'must' when in Antigonish!