Attempting to put the fantastical experience that is Frantzén into words is a rather difficult task. Walking up to the austere, unassuming, three-story Norrmalm storefront, Frantzén gives no indication that it is one of the best restaurants in the world from the outside looking in. The building conceals what surely must be the most exciting gastronomy experience in Sweden, if not Scandinavia.
Upon entering the restaurant, you're standing in an austere, brown leather walled room with aging meats and other projects hanging in fridges nestled within one wall. A staff member emerges and begins an introduction, taking you through their dry aging and fermentation projects in the aforementioned fridge and learning a little bit about who you are. At the end of the conversation you're told "I'll see you upstairs," and a hidden door opens, revealing a dark hallway with a single, brightly lit and cleverly designed trail of water with mist on the floor leading you to a single elevator door. Pushing the button for "Restaurant," Metallica's "Enter Sandman" started to play, making this easily the most thrash metal elevator I've ever been in.
You step out into a beautiful loft space, with more aging ingredients in jars against the wall, and led to your seats in what can only be described as your most tasteful friends loft apartment who also happens to have a world-class kitchen. Here, you meet your server (though more aptly described as "guide") that gets you started with some champagne and some world class bites, the highlight of which was Frantzén's take on råraka; essentially a Swedish latke. It takes 48 hours to make (so I'm told) and brilliantly exudes the flavor profile of the comfort food in an elegant, complex presentation. Like other tasting menus, to try and opine on each course is simply an exercise in futility. The highlight of this floor is an introduction to all of the raw ingredients forming the menu on a given day. Walking over to kitchen in the loft, a secret compartment is opened to reveal the day's bounty. You can touch, see, and even taste the raw ingredients making up the menu, which is a fun way to generate a relationship with your meal.
After bubbly and snacks, you're introduced to more of the restaurant (literally) with your guide's assistance, beginning with stepping out onto the terrace to overlook Stockholm and a tour through the kitchen, where the scallops we met moments were being cleaned for the meal. For the first time in my restaurant experience, we also stopped off at the bathroom to show off the fancy Japanese toilet, featuring the likes of rear spray, rear spray *soft*, and the "lady shower"). I was encouraged to "take advantage of all the amenities" and couldn't help but chuckle childishly to myself.
We finally found ourselves in the kitchen/dining room area against the counter overlooking the kitchen (there is no difference between counter and table from what I could tell beyond a better view of the kitchen at the counter). Each course was paired with a wine and non-alcoholic pairing (we opted for one of each), all of which went fantastically with its assigned course. The non-alcoholic pairing was particularly notable, as Frantzén highlights the care wit which they make this "juice." (Juice doesn't seem like a fair word for the level of focus and complexity in each sip). You also get a few off-menu surprise drinks as the meal goes on.
I loved each dish served, with the show stopping "French toast" as one of my top picks. Topped with truffles and aged balsamic vinegar, the decadence is paired with a port or a juice made of raisin and maple (I think). The combination is simply indescribable. The scallop dish was likewise brilliant, even causing the staff to urge me to sit back down and forego the restroom (a tough ask) so that I could appreciate the course at the proper temperature (for which I'm thankful). The salted carrot ice cream and flower waffles(?) for lack of a better work hit the spot for the main dessert courses.
You're brought back up to the loft to feast on a whole cart of mignardise waiting for you. You can pick one or as many as you can eat (another notable strawberry-black pepper juice was served for dessert). After you're finished, you make your way back to the elevator (which descended to the Rolling Stones' "You can't Always Get What You Want") and are thrown back into the Norrmalm street, like an angel being tossed from heaven.
My meal at Frantzén reminded me once more what great food and hospitality can be, and more importantly, cemented in my mind that NYC restaurants can grow lazy and complacent in their focus. It is a very high-priced meal and reservations are very tough to get, but this isn't without reason. For the 4-5 hours you spend at Frantzén, you are made to feel like the most important person in the world, eating the best ingredients available, made by one of the best chefs alive. read more