I couldn't deny my enthusiasm about this month's assignment being carnivore-friendly given our most…read morerecent review focused on vegetarian options, that while still very satisfying, still lacked the savory gratification of meat and more meat. Smoked, braised, grilled, roasted, or fried bring it on- either when I eat out or if I'm in my own personal happy place in front of my smoker. Enter Zynda's, a southwestern restaurant that now occupies the former Red Cedar Grill (one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the area) in Williamston. The venue has been nicely updated and far more open than I recalled its predecessor. There are several dining options including a
nice bar serving craft cocktails, upscale booths for a special night, and the Chimney Room which can seat up to 50 guests. Billed as a barbecue restaurant on some food sites, Zynda's menu is part Tex-Mex, part New American, with some French, Asian, Cajun, and Mediterranean elements. I usually subscribe to the theory that restaurants that do a lot of everything rarely do anything exceptionally well. Zynda's had a lot of high notes, to be sure, but a lack of focus was evident on others.
What's Really Good
I'm a big fan of the ribeye when slathered in the bearnaise sauce. It was aromatic and rich, but
not over-powering. Not as thick as most restaurants' ribeye, the steak was still cooked perfectly and paired well with the grilled asparagus. The smoked chicken atop the Baked "mac n cheese" with penne pasta was rich in smokiness. The dish had plenty of melty cheesy goodness and benefitted from both the creamy béchamel base and the crunch from panko crumbles.
Likewise, the au gratin potatoes were rich and scrumptious with a nice kick from chiles. Can I
get some more of this please? The onion rings were another hit, thick-cut and crispy, the batter was less greasy than some other area favorites. On lighter notes, the Michigan Springtime Salad with carrots, dried cranberries, walnuts, capers, and feta cheese and a red wine vinaigrette, and the Caesar Salad with a citrusy punch were both quite good.
What's Just Ok
The Smoked Chicken Quesadilla was solid, but not outstanding. The blending of Tex-Mex and
slow smoking is a tricky matter, and the meat didn't shine like it did in the pasta. Further
attention to detail could have been paid to several items: the corn chowder was missing the potato and bacon pictured on the menu; the coleslaw lacked creaminess and salt; and while the Southwest Pulled Pork Eggrolls, jam packed with black beans, corn, and green chiles, were an interesting way to enjoy Zynda's smoked delicacies, the smoked pork seemed at odds with everything else in each bite rather than enhanced by them. The dipping sauce added yet another layer of taste but offered a comforting cool to the Southwestern brawl.
Best Bite
A southwestern smokehouse will need to bring it in the flavor department when it comes to
brisket. Zynda's Corned Beef Brisket was on point. Tender and juicy, the brisket was packed
with a depth of flavor from both the corning and smoking processes. The flavor was ramped up a notch when coupled with either the AZ's Sweet & Savory sauce (closer to Kansas City-style tomato base and brown sugar) or the ZBQ sauce (a zestier, vinegar-based sauce akin to a
Memphis-style sauce). Served with shoestring fries and a delightful jalapeño cornbread, this
smokey and hearty plate is what I expect when I think of BBQ,
