I stood in a quaint restaurant perched above the Passaic River with my peepers puzzledly peeping a…read moresign that read "Gene the Pinning Machine." The interior was a quirky mix of hand-painted nautical scenes and a shrine to -- who I presumed was -- a wildly successful collegiate wrestler, Mean Gene Mills.
"Do you like spicy food?" a voice piped up from behind me.
"Yeah, sure." I replied, turning to see a sprightly older man sporting wide glasses and a leather jacket. I'd noticed him earlier rolling up on a three-wheeled motorcycle as I approached the place, parking it neatly around the side.
"I'd go for the Chili Dog and the Big Kahuna," he suggested with a grin, adding, "The chili's not spicy but it's damn good."
As it happened, I'd already ordered a pair of chili dogs but I nodded appreciatively. "I'll have to try the Kahuna next time." I said.
The man introduced himself as the owner and brother of the locally lionized Gene the Pinning Machine. I could see he was proud of his brother's legacy and this hotdog spot he seemed to view as a hobby. "I'm in real estate mostly," he explained. "The hotdog stand is just for fun. I always wanted a spot by the river, saw this place and snapped it up."
And he spoke of it like a hobbyist. He told me about his sausage guy up in upstate New York who hand-makes the dogs, sausages, and casings fuel his culinary creations. While some joints boil or fry their hot dogs, he opts for a series of convection ovens--air-frying them. A quirky and distinctive twist I haven't seen before. It's that hobbyist's eye, as I am saying.
We chatted a bit longer before he ducked behind the counter to check in with the kids working the line. He greeted each one with a warm chummy hug and their faces lit up at the sight of him. It was clear from the easy banter that he's a boss who's genuinely well-liked.
Now, about that dog:
An air-fried hot dog feels a little out there--like baking one, you'd figure it'd dry out. But honestly? It wasn't half bad. Crisp on the outside, yet still decently average on the hot-dog-o-meter. Definitely a step up from the boiled variety.
The chili, though? Hands down, phenomenal. That, along with the sausage, comes from his guy up in Syracuse -- the same one crafting those hot dogs. Is it worth hauling a box truck to upstate New York for? Hard to say. But it's absolutely worth my five-minute drive to Woodlandd Park to eat.
The prices feel right in line with what you'd expect from a boutique roadside spot like this.
The interior's compact--think a pair of small tables and a counter. Out back back there's a small deck with a few tables and chairs overlooking the river. Could be a sweet spot when the weather's kind.
The menu is substantial with the addition of an ice cream bar, all Gelotti which is a North Jersey staple.
The hotdog is a pretty humble food-stuff, if you like them then you won't be disappointed here. It's worth a stop for lunch if you're ever in town.
