Even if you have only a passing familiarity with the world of Californian wine, CRŪ Wine Company will strike you as a bit of an outlier - if not just downright odd altogether. For starters, it doesn't fit itself easily into any discernible category. It's not an estate winery, replete with endless rows of trellised vineyards and attractive decorative landscaping fronting an immaculate driveway overlooking distant hills and mountains. We'll get to landscaping later. It's also not part of a "wine ghetto" like you'll encounter in Lompoc, Templeton, or Berkeley, where a collective gathering of pioneering winemakers assemble incredible vintages and blends using grapes purchased from select vineyards that they seek out for rare varietals and top-quality fruit. And it doesn't showcase the grapes grown in the region where it is located, since hardly any of the wines made are done so with Madera County grapes (which tend towards the Thompson Seedless rather than vintage Burgundy or Bordeaux). It's a wine-making warehouse in the middle of more or less nowhere you've ever heard of before, unless you are a local to these parts or went to school in Fresno.
Even the "butterfly" that adorns its pretty Mariposa wine labels isn't a butterfly at all. It's a moth (don't ask how I know this). The web site shows a verdant, green, sun-drenched landscape, but that ain't Madera (I suspect it's somewhere in Arroyo Seco).
So, you start out from a point of disorientation as you are speeding down the highway on CA-99, cars and trucks just whizzing by at 80mph+ as you maneuver to the marked Road 21 exit ramp. You drive about 1/4 mile down the road, turn right at a nut-processing facility (pistachio tastings, anyone?), then turn left at an unassuming metal gate and park next to a nondescript metal warehouse, looking vaguely like a miniature Wal-Mart distribution center. You exit the car, blink at the intense sunlight and haze emanating from the Central Valley (which bakes in summer and freezes in winter), and then ...
Now, just about then is when the fun starts. Wine barrels arranged in tasteful pyramids greet you as you pass onto a tree-lined walkway, olive trees dropping plump dried fruit at your feet as wine vines arranged in decorative fashion mix with lush, drought-tolerant bushes and flowering plants. There are topiary trees, too, and then a vine-covered outdoor deck with wine barrel planters overflowing with pretty blooming things. You open the door, and you step inside.
You are greeted upon entering by an enormous decorative wine glass, large enough to hold a case or more of wine. Posters with larger-than-life wine bottles hang from the walls, announcing awards from tasting competitions in San Francisco, Texas, and southern California. A large bar with Riedel glasses and printed tasting flights invites you in, as you are handed a glass of Arroyo Seco Chardonnay or Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir. Or a rosé of Pinot Noir if you're lucky. You are offered an Albariño from the Edna Valley, a Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet, and Tempranillo from Paso Robles, Riesling and Chenin Blanc from top notch sites, vineyard-designate reds and whites from the Santa Maria Valley, and suddenly it hits you: they make the wine here, but the grapes are grown in all the right places. Central Coast wines, you understand: Monterey, San Benito, Santa Barbara counties. Not Napa. Not Mendo. Not Sonoma. Local wines, just not THAT local.
Not that Madera lacks fine wine. Check out Quady, Fäsi Estate Winery, or other prime spots on the Madera Wine Trail if you doubt that. But here, at CRŪ, they do it a bit differently. And, you know what they say in that land of wine-drinking bliss: vive la différence. This is easier than you might think - once you make that all-important leap of faith to exit the highway and drive off in search of a new grape-to-glass adventure!
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