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Yosemite National Park, CA

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Cascade Falls

5.0 (3 reviews)

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Cathedral Peak - at the base of the route

Cathedral Peak

5.0(3 reviews)
20.0 mi

My absolute favorite peak in California. Just simply great, whether one goes for the slabs on one…read moreside or the class 4 on the south side. The route to Eichorn Pinnacle is superb, but that off-width is hard to protect. A bivvie on the saddle between the main peak and Eichorn Pinnacle can be an epiphany if the weather is good, or an absolute purge if it storms ( BE CAREFUL OF LIGHTENING STRIKES! ). The descent can indeed be treacherous, as one side just suddenly drops off from the ridge. By the way, Budd Lake had a population of the famed Sierra Golden Trout, but I have not been there for over a decade.

Amazing. Climb…read more Probably one of the best multi-pitch rock climbs I have ever done. We started very late and ended up going down in the dark. I don't recommend this for one main reason: The descent is not straight-forward by headlamp. I found the description from SuperTopo to be a bit confusing, so here's my description (in case you don't heed my advice and try to roll this sucker late in the day): You are going to want to down-climb the last 10-15 ft of the summit pinnacle. The section you JUST climbed up to reach the tiny summit. Down-lead this (or better yet, just leave your pro in from the ascent) and build an anchor at the base. (I know this seems like a stupidly short "pitch" to build an anchor for, but, TRUST ME. The rope drag is heinous if you try to go around the corner and then anchor-in.) Then do a running belay/simul-climb around the corner (you are now going AWAY from the face you just climbed up). Once around the corner, go slightly right (skier's right). Once you've done this, just keep going left and down, gradually, on easy 3rd class terrain (we took the rope off at this point). When it starts to look easy to go right, traverse right until you pop out on the other side of the mountain. You'll probably do some minor bush-whacking, just try to keep hopping on those big granite boulders! The SuperTopo seems to say that you hook back right a lot sooner (after going down-left), the terrain there looked like very run-out/, 5th class slab (read: skeery), so we did not do this. OK, now that we've talked about the boring part (getting down), let's talk about the FUN part: climbing up. It's 5 pitches of 5.6-5.7 on glorious granite with ample spots for pro. You can run it out with ease, knowing there is always going to be a place to get your nuts in. This is the complete opposite of "Snake Dike" on Half Dome in that regard. We did the far-left (climber's left) variation. I think it's variation "A" in the guide book. We decided to simul-climb the first two pitches, this was a good call. The beginning of pitch 1 is very easy (low-5th and even 4th class) by the time it gets more difficult, the leader will already be at the 2nd anchor and the second can be belayed up. If you're a strong climber you could even keep going and link all three of the first pitches! Every pitch is fun, with great moves and great positioning. I'd make sure you are not wearing a pack or gear sling for the start of pitch 4, as the chimney is kinda tight in the beginning. Or maybe I'm just getting fat? I lead the last two pitches by headlamp, a new experience, and shockingly more fun that scary. If you do this, I'd start either insanely early or insanely late, in order to avoid the crowds. Have fun!

Photos
Cathedral Peak - Thar she blows!

Thar she blows!

Cathedral Peak - Glorious, glorious granite

Glorious, glorious granite

Cathedral Peak - Start early, it's very tricky figuring out the way down in the dark

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Start early, it's very tricky figuring out the way down in the dark

Snake Dike

Snake Dike

5.0(1 review)
10.6 mi

I almost died here…read more I was climbing Snake Dike for the first time. At the point where you are supposed to traverse left, off of the dike you've been climbing on pitches 1-3, and onto another one...I didn't. I just kept "riding the dike". This route is called "Snake Dance" and goes at 5.9R. Long story short, the first bolt must've been 90-100 ft above the anchor. I had climbed up 80-90 ft, could see the "first" bolt but was getting pumped out trying to reach it. I started shaking, was filled with terror and then...then I was falling. I was cheese-grattering down the granite slabs, and I was oddly at piece. I remember thinking "well, I had a good run, I guess now I know how it's going to end." I tried to keep my feet in front of me as I was coming up on a ledge. I thought it would be better to break my legs than my FACE. As I neared the ledge my clothes had shredded through down to my skin (it was cold day, wearing a shoftshell probably saved me from even more sever road rash) and the, suddenly, the rope caught! I didn't know what injuries I may have sustained but at least I wasn't going to die. I mean, as long as my belayer held on. And she did, boy did she ever. I had fallen all the way down to the one of the previous anchors. How...convenient. I had my climbing partner hold the rope tight and I swung over to the anchor. I had her rappel down to me and...her hands were very very badly burned from the rope. But, she held on, and she saved my life. We limped out and eventually got to an emergency room. Her hands would have to be in bandages for weeks, but they are all better now. Luckily, I got away with just a cracked rib, bruised heels, and road rash along my arms, thighs, and butt (sorry bro). We came back 6 months later, stayed on-route and had a great time. A summit has never tasted so sweet. The "actual" Snake Dike route is till VERY run-out in places. There are spots where there is only 2 or ever ONE bolt on the entire pitch. But, most of the climbing is in the 5.4 range, so it's not anywhere near as heady as 5.9 slab. (yeah, I'm a punter, 5.9 slab with epic runouts gets me real skeered, especially now...seriously, my hands are sweating all over my keyboard as I type this...) Best part of Snake Dike is that you don't need a permit. I don't expect it will be like this for much longer, get it while it's hot!

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Snake Dike
Snake Dike
Snake Dike

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Cascade Falls - hiking - Updated November 2026

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