I almost died here.
I was climbing Snake Dike for the first time.
At the point where you are supposed to traverse left, off of the dike you've been climbing on pitches 1-3, and onto another one...I didn't.
I just kept "riding the dike". This route is called "Snake Dance" and goes at 5.9R.
Long story short, the first bolt must've been 90-100 ft above the anchor. I had climbed up 80-90 ft, could see the "first" bolt but was getting pumped out trying to reach it. I started shaking, was filled with terror and then...then I was falling. I was cheese-grattering down the granite slabs, and I was oddly at piece. I remember thinking "well, I had a good run, I guess now I know how it's going to end." I tried to keep my feet in front of me as I was coming up on a ledge. I thought it would be better to break my legs than my FACE.
As I neared the ledge my clothes had shredded through down to my skin (it was cold day, wearing a shoftshell probably saved me from even more sever road rash) and the, suddenly, the rope caught! I didn't know what injuries I may have sustained but at least I wasn't going to die.
I mean, as long as my belayer held on. And she did, boy did she ever.
I had fallen all the way down to the one of the previous anchors. How...convenient. I had my climbing partner hold the rope tight and I swung over to the anchor.
I had her rappel down to me and...her hands were very very badly burned from the rope. But, she held on, and she saved my life.
We limped out and eventually got to an emergency room. Her hands would have to be in bandages for weeks, but they are all better now. Luckily, I got away with just a cracked rib, bruised heels, and road rash along my arms, thighs, and butt (sorry bro).
We came back 6 months later, stayed on-route and had a great time. A summit has never tasted so sweet.
The "actual" Snake Dike route is till VERY run-out in places. There are spots where there is only 2 or ever ONE bolt on the entire pitch. But, most of the climbing is in the 5.4 range, so it's not anywhere near as heady as 5.9 slab. (yeah, I'm a punter, 5.9 slab with epic runouts gets me real skeered, especially now...seriously, my hands are sweating all over my keyboard as I type this...)
Best part of Snake Dike is that you don't need a permit.
I don't expect it will be like this for much longer, get it while it's hot! read more