tl;dr the ambitious lineup of tortillas and croquetas is worth navigating the out-the-door queues…read moreat this Malasaña tapas bar
Across tapas staples, one lesser-known dish is tortilla española (Spanish omelette). This fritata-like dish traditionally features potatoes and onion, but one popular tapas bar, Pez Tortilla, is known for pushing the boundaries of tortillas. This casual spot on Calle de Pez has a whimsical menu of tortillas and croquetas: think ingredients like morcilla (blood sausage) and squid ink. The consistent late-night crowds will confirm that these are some of the best in the city.
Blink and you might miss the diminutive, hole-in-the-wall bar. The storefront is largely unadorned, and the interior features a minimalist-modern design. A single marble-topped table is tucked up to the window; other customers are relegated to a few barstools or left standing. The food menu is chalked onto a large whiteboard behind the far side of the bar; the sophisticated components will take time to review for the non-fluent. Drinks are listed on a giant backlit letterboard display on the opposite wall. Instrumental rock blends with multilingual chatter. Arrive early and don't be surprised to find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder with fellow patrons.
My mother and I arrived in the pouring rain on a Thursday evening, and, still, every table was taken; fortunately, a party left as we were perusing the menu. I opted for the Brie, Trufa, y Jamon Tortilla; the Puchero de la Abuela and the Chipirones en Su Tinta Croquetas; and a small glass of vermouth. The quarter-slice of custardy, runny tortilla was rich, earthy, and mildly funky. It paired well with the chewy bread slices on the side. My only criticism was that I would have preferred it warmer than room temperature (although I concede that may have affected the consistency). Both croquetas sported an expertly crispy exterior with a molten, flavor-filled heart. Of the 2, I preferred the warm embrace of the chickpea stew-based rendition, although the briny squid ones were no slouch. Lastly, the vermouth, served on the rocks, was one of the strongest, most heavily spiced glasses that I have tried across Spain.
Service was efficient -- the staff fulfilled orders like clockwork, and an employee was always ready to bus a newly empty table. Each component of our meal cost just 3-4 euros, and just these few items left me feeling content. These are by no means traditional tortillas españolas or croquetas. But, put simply, the flavors just work.