Been a regular here (Avon sometimes, mainly Frisco or Hatteras Village) for 2-3 weeks almost annually since 1980, because of all the 4-5 star comments here! If you stay south of the Nag's Head, etc. built-up and commercialized area (like stay south of Bonner Bridge), it is suddenlyremote, not (and probably never will be) overbuilt (because of NPS protections), 70+ miles of glorious beaches on one side of the only (2-lane) highway, and marshes and birds and wondrous sunsets on the other. And still, thankfully, relatively less discovered by the millions within 2-days' drive.
And, you can still DRIVE most of the beaches (!) (but ONLY with 4-wheel drive & 12-15 lb tire pressure and nowadays a Pk Svc permit), meaning your family can be out of sight of nearest others (where else can you find that)! And take your choice of beaches, protected/restricted or not! Fairly costly rentals of big houses/condos/cottages, feasible because often shared by large or multiple families, often as an annual tradition. Renting busiest, of course, June-July; but the modest crowds ease mid-Aug when kids go back to school and tourism declines. Best late August thru Sept+, when ocean is warmest (still a bit brisk), summer heat eases, and all shopping/restaurants are still open (we were there on 9/11, glued to our TV while dust and desk calendar pages settled in our close-in Brooklyn backyard). Hotels/motels available but low-rise, not numerous and heavily pre-booked in-season. Fishing from beach is fun (license required), best dawn or dusk, but not plentiful in warm seas of peak summer (mainly Spanish Mackerel and a few Blues); Flounder in the Sound; all better (and bigger) off shore in a rental boat out to Gulf Stream or, carefully, off the Cape Point. You can snorkel both ocean and Sound, but not really much to see (as are real reefs further south); though I'm told you can scuba to enjoy the off-shore wrecks). Clamming plentiful on Sound shoals, and landlubbers all seem to find "treading" special, with rakes or just wading and feeling with your heels for lumps in the sand; reach down, pull out clam, and if clam is of size and someone carries a clam-knife, open and slurp down; could NOT be fresher! (Kids LOVE all this; but so do our adult guests!)
In the early 80s, electricity was, well, intermittent; all rental housing came with plenty of candles. There was no TV. Telephones were rare (to phone you stood in line slapping 'squitoes at the pay phone booth at Hatteras' Red & White market. Shopping/eat-outs were just adequate; no alcohol in restaurants. Now, electric services are full and secure; everyone has land-line & cell phones (that work in many places) and Internet(!); plenty of shopping and restaurants with full bars serving mostly, of course, traditional seashore seafood--but fresh (!)(tho oysters may be imported). Eat around to find the best. Local folks are usually terrific (we've made friends); in seasonal help may be college kids or even seasonal imports from abroad, making money to travel the US after season ends (we've had good conversations with such). Good wine is available, especially at Robinson's, a must in "Hatt'res" for most things; hard booze only at the State Store in Buxton; many restaurants now have both.
Either you like this kind of living or you don't, in which case try the mountains and leave this kind of paradise to the likes of us! --Baze W. read more