While Roses maybe overshadowed by the legend of El Bulli and then Rafa's by those in the know, there is a place in the streets away from the tourist crush. Walk a few blocks away from the water closer to the residential areas and you'll find Cal Negre. Literally a redone house with a large kitchen/fume hood in the middle of the building. We sat outside on a nice warm day and literally we're on the patio of the house. It's like eating in someone's back yard.
Specializing in the seafood from the Cap de Creus that Roses is right off of, they also have some other Catalan fare. However you'd best focus on that seafood. Tiger prawns, langoustines and one of the best l'arròs de llagosta I've ever had. A whole lobster on top of an amazing bed or rice with a bunch of surprises throughout. As I kept digging we found mantis shrimp (galera), small harbor crabs (franqueta?), and txipirones (small squid). So damn good across the board.
The family were super nice to us and they could tell we were enjoying their food. One of the servers also took the time to teach us some Catalan so we could learn more about the food. If you make your way up the Costa Brava and pass through this area, drop in, get a pitcher of sangria and enjoy some amazing local seafood read more