I'm back in Italy. And I'm back in Mexico. The same barista has been here for 30 years. A reminder that in Italy, it's not just a job, it's a CAREER. He and his coworker were speaking Neapolitano to each other, not Italian. In a hyper-caffeinated city that runs on coffee, this is one of the best. Their brand is Passalacqua, which is funny, because it basically means "passing water," which is of course what coffee makes you do. The logo is an American Indian licking his lips, which would probably be politically incorrect in the US these days. I had my cappuccino accompanied by a sfogliatella, the uniquely Neapolitan pastry with the multi-layered coiled pastry shell that you mysteriously unwind. The prices here are actually better than nearby more touristy places. No outdoor seating (too bad, there's plenty of space outside), and only two stools. You basically just stand at the counter. Remember to order your caffè "amaro," no sugar; otherwise they put it in automatically. read more