The never-ending quest for the best burger continues! This time, Burger & Shake was up to bat. A new restaurant in the heart of Bloomsbury, Burger & Shake aims for cosy simplicity and it hits all the right notes. I know others have disparaged it for copying perhaps Shake Shack from NYC, Burger & Shake in Miami, and even Burger & Lobster here in London. But let's be honest, ever since McD's started serving up hamburgers and shakes for 10 cents back in the day, everything else has been a copy in some form or another. What matters is not where the original idea came from, but rather the execution of said idea. And when it comes to execution, Burger & Shake isn't perfect, but it does pretty damn well.
First off, atmosphere. This is a small cosy shop with perhaps 8 booths seating 4 people and a couple of tables. Like most similar joints, it operates with a no reservations policy so get there early or be prepared to wait. At the moment, it's fairly unknown so you should be okay to get a seat in short order but I imagine it will start to fill up as word spreads. The staff are quite friendly and they use what looks like Samsung or Google tablets to take your order (yay tech!).
Next, let's talk shakes. Since Rob H beat me to the obvious lyrical reference, I'll stick to what I know. As far as shakes go these are pretty good but they could be bigger. I always feel that a shake should be sufficiently large and/or thick that you can't finish it. I know it's a waste, but that's the experience I like. There are about 12 oz and moderately thick but still very easy to slurp up via a straw. The salted caramel was my preferred one although it benefitted from the extra salt added by Rob H. The chocolate tasted a tad too processed and reminded me of my chocolate protein shakes. I get the flavour they are aiming for, but it's just not natural. The strawberry was fairly mild and a pretty decent effort and I learned when it comes to shakes, Katie B dominates in taking them down.
I had heard good things about the wings so naturally an order of those was in...well order. I find that most places here don't understand the concept of buffalo hot wings. B&S provides the best attempt I've seen to date with a sharp spicy hot sauce and a side of proper blue cheese dressing. The wings are almost perfect but could use a minute or two more in the fryer to give the skin a proper crispy crunch. The wings cooked just right with tender juicy flesh and large enough to be satisfying. I would have liked to see more dressing on the side (seriously, a tiny thimbleful is not enough for 16 wings), but that's a minor issue easily remedied.
Finally, we get to the main event - the burger. We all opted for the house burger which is basically the hamburger (menu item #1) + American cheese (thus making it the cheeseburger which is offering #2) + cured bacon + condiments. First, let's see what they did well. The brioche bun was soft, fluffy, perfectly golden brown, and held together pretty well despite the amount of meat juice and sauces. The burger patty was cooked to perfection and exhibited a juicy texture with plenty of pink and a rich meaty taste. The bacon was a nice touch although I wish they had trimmed the each of the fat off - you know, that bit that is stringy and catches in your teeth? I didn't even notice pickles and a bit more acidity would have been a nice touch. Another minor gripe was the slight dryness to the edge of the brioche which tugged at the teeth with every bite and made it feel as if the bun was just a tad stale. However, my major issue is with the size of the burger. It's tiny! For £9, I want more than a measly 6oz of meat as that is nowhere near enough to fill me up. The waitress suggested I could always order two burgers but for close to £20, I'd expect something spectacular as they would start encroaching on Bar Bolud territory.
Finally, I opted for the only dessert on the menu in order to give you, my faithful readers, a complete review. The dessert was a peanut butter and chocolate cheesecake - essentially attempting to be a Reeses peanut butter cup. Which is fine but you need the get all the flavours in there. The peanut taste was well balanced with enough flavour you got the idea but not so much you felt that you had been digging into a jar of Skippy's chunky. The chocolate, however, was non-existent and a bit of a let down as I was expecting that sweet milky taste to balance out the nuttiness. Overall, an alright dessert but I wish I had skipped it and settled for a chocolate fondant at home.
Well there you have it. As far as London burgers go, it's above average but not enough to break into the top 3 due to its small size and thus poor value proposition. As far as a burger place, I quite enjoyed it for the atmosphere, décor, and speed of service.
And for those of you keeping track, that's #400. read more