I'm conflicted about this place. There were many positives but my food and drinks didn't wow me. The wife's dishes were better though, especially the amazing chicken.
We almost didn't go because the automated reservation system claimed there were no tables until 9:00; way too late for us. But we stopped in anyway (our hotel was next door) and inquired and there were plenty of tables available. Weird. So we came at 6:00 and got a really nice - though very small - outside table; perfect for watching street activity on this warm evening.
I started with onion soup. It was interesting how it was served: The bowl is brought with only the croutons and broiled cheese in it, and the waiter pours the liquid over it at the table. Is it better this way? I think I prefer the standard way but it was interesting. It was pretty good overall, a decent but not outstanding broth, not tinny-tasting or too salty, good onions (could have used more), and I liked the cheese which was browned and partially melted from its time under the broiler.
My entree was the Hortus Burger: Local organic beef from Charlevoix, garlic mayonnaise, goat cheese, tomato, pepper, and green apple jam. Served with fries and a green salad. It was definitely different, and I liked it but didn't love it. The patty was unusually dense in texture and tasted salty, like the salt was worked into the patty itself. The tomato was fresh and I liked the apple jam. There was a lot of goat cheese; as much actually as the beef. This, along with the fact that the bun was rather firm, made it almost impossible to pick up and eat by hand - the cheese squeezed out and fell onto the plate - that I ended up using a knife and fork for most if it. The cheese added needed moisture though to balance the dense, dryish patty (even though it was cooked medium as I ordered).
The salad was pre-dressed and very good. The fries were good too, crisp and browned but not dry. The portion was too much though and we took some home along with some of the wife's chicken. A bigger burger and fewer fries would be a better balance.
Visiting the website I discovered the reason for the bun's firm texture, which didn't seem right for the burger: It was gluten-free, along with everything the restaurant serves. I understand some people can't tolerate gluten, but there's a reason wheat flour is king of grains: nothing makes better bread. I'm much more on board with their other commitments: to use only locally-sourced, organic ingredients wherever possible.
Local? Very! Exploring the roof of the hotel where we stayed, I discovered their secret garden where they grow much of their produce, along with a beehive where their bees make the honey, far above the bustle of old Quebec.
The wife's chicken was the star of the evening. Chicken breast, browned, sliced, and perfectly tender, served with roasted root vegetables and an amazing flavorful oily herb medley resembling chimichurri. We both agreed it was one of the best chicken dishes we've ever had.
As for drinks, I didn't much like my cocktail, though it was pretty. Le Violet, made with gin, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, honey syrup, and white cranberry juice. Though it was served in a martini glass neat, it was disappointingly weak. Rather than risk disappointment again I switched to wine. But their wines by the glass are only described by the grape (Cabernet, Pinot, etc.) not by vintner. I expect better from a restaurant of the caliper Hortus aspires to be.
As for desserts, my Pouding Chômeur (cake soaked in caramel sauce, maple ice cream) wasn't anything special but it was tasty enough. The real star was again the wife's dessert: their Signature Crème Brulée, honey-flavored with white chocolate and ginger. I'm not a huge fan of crème brulée but I could tell this was outstanding, with a pronounced honey flavor (though not much ginger) and a good crackable crust on top.
All in all, though my food and drinks only rated 3 stars, the wife's dishes were exceptional, and along with the service and ambience, this rates a solid 4 stars. I'd come back and try something different next time. read more