Fitting that my first post Covid lockdown restaurant review should be Indian cuisine as for many years now I confess to being somewhat of an "Indianholic". I remember back in the day (eighties) when venturing for a curry became a welcome change for the Berni Inn weary British public. Then it was chintz, tasteless décor and carpeted floors. Laminated menus (first red flag) often with food photo's (second red flag) offering a simple matrix choice of curries; chicken/lamb/beef/prawn; mild/medium/hot/very hot. Let's be honest those early ventures were nothing more than a passport for getting a pint after last orders. This was the era when macho man surfaced and the all too familiar sight of foreheads and jowls sweating profusely as bragging rights were fought over as to who could handle the hottest curry (phall). Brows mopped with naan. Then came the nineties and early noughties and the Indian revolution: more thought into the interior and ambience and ambitious menus allowing the increasingly inquisitive public into adventurous new tastes: rogan josh; karahi, dopiaza, pathia, korma, dhansak and, of course, the ubiquitous tikka masala. Roll on the twenty tens and twenties and the Indian restaurant scene is once again moving (albeit slowly) with the times and responding to the changing demands of the Gen Y and Millennial's. Modern, contemporary, fusion, street and fast food are now the order of the day.
Bandook, an Urdu word meaning shotgun or rifle, not sure why? Fiery? The restaurant is nestled in the fashionable Milsom Place complex in Bath. It describes itself as a modern, casual dining, Indian street food restaurant whose aim is to create a wow factor with its cooking.
Traditionalists looking for familiarity might be perplexed. "Where's the poppadum's?". Well the fact is there aren't any and not a chicken tikka masala in sight. Welcome to nouvelle cuisine Indian style. The Manager explained that there are no starters and mains per se, and everything ordered will arrive when it's ready (Wagamama style). Personally, I quite like this approach, but it does lend itself to a must share ethos to avoid a one eating one watching awkwardness. We opted for two small plates of Bombay Prawns marinated in caraway, peanuts, sesame and tomato salsa and Kurkurit Bhindi: crunchy fried okra in a gram flour coating. Both delicious but a few more prawns would have been welcome. Next up a Railway Lamb Curry and a Somerset Tandoori Murgh (chicken) with one Pilau rice and breadbasket (naan ,roti and garlic naan). Hit all the right notes albeit we felt the chicken was marginally dry and not spiced up enough.
The menu is well thought out and enticingly off the familiar Indian piste with everything cooked to near perfection and with care and respect from the chef. We enjoyed the lot. Were we wowed? Not quite but impressed yes.
Busy atmosphere inside in what the owners boast as eye-catching and inspired by the colonial era. To a degree yes but if any of you have ever dined in the Bombay Brasserie in London whose interior truly fits that claim then you will be a little underwhelmed. That said it's comfortable and modern with a good vibe and kudos to whoever chose the background music playlist.
We had two Gin & Tonics and a great New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and the bill came in at £95 excluding service. You get what you pay for and we thought it was decent value for money.
Rating
· Ambience & service (out of 5): 3.5
· Value for money (out of 5): 4.0
· Food (out of 10): 7.5
· Total (out of 20) 15.0
Return
· Most definitely and regularly read more