In short, Aloë persuaded me that Stockholm (or more specifically, Älvsjö) is more gastronomically ambitious than New York City. Recommended to us by our hotel staff, Aloë is hidden out amongst the suburbs in a former grocery store, originally constructed as a state-directed neighborhood building program (for lack of a better term). Without the insight and preparation that this was a "hidden" restaurant literally off the tourist-traveled path, I would have never known about this revolutionary restaurant.
Take the subway to the Telefonplan T-bana (or a taxi if you're less stingy than I am) and give yourself a half hour to walk through the neighborhood to the restaurant. I understand that sometimes the chefs/ownership send a car to pick up guests; I was not so lucky. When you arrive in front of what looks like a home goods store with suspicious grilling equipment outside (and maybe Chef Höglander tending to it), you'll know you're at the right place. You'll be lead through the store and behind a curtain, transforming your surroundings from a simple suburban store to a temple of gastronomy.
Now the tasting menu is long. VERY long. In fact, each tasting menu I tried in Stockholm lasted between 3.5 and 5 hours, so prepare yourself and plan accordingly. Likewise, due to word count limitations, I cannot possibly describe very dish in a meaningful way, so I'll hit the highlights.
We started the meal seated in an anteroom before entering the dining area, decorated with various books and tourist guides that were food and Sweden focused. Beginning with a spiced apple juice and concentrated basil oil (I think) which constituted such an explosion of intense, focused flavor, I knew I was in for something special. This was paired with a Chanterelle pizza (topped with a play on that basil flavor) that was grilled on the grill noticed upon approaching the restaurant and a puff pastry (gougere) of parmesan.
Guests continued to fill the anteroom as we were finishing up and we met our dining companions for the evening, who were also foodies from the American northeast, so we had plenty to talk about (note that these are shared tables, so unless you come as a group larger than four, you will likely be eating with other groups). Once we arrived at our shared table, which was situated in a large open room with other shared tables, with the entire kitchen in the corner and within clear sight, a few more bites were brought to the table, including a take on surf & turf with a beef tartare tart and a caviar blini. Delicately spiced gochujang pork broth and a gigantic herbaceous oyster was also served. The highlight of the appetizer was the decadent otoro (tuna belly) "make your own" taco, that was served in a seaweed "shell." I didn't know that fish could be fatty or flavorful until that bite.
For the main courses, the caviar and coconut ice cream flavor combo was bold and experimental, combining that salty sweetness in a way I had not seen before (though it didn't suit all of my guests tastes). The highlight of the entrees was the dove dish, the funky gaminess of the meat melding brilliantly with the shiso and apple through its taste translator, the marockan onion. The shellfish were also naturally impressive with a size and cooking technique rarely seen so expertly applied.
For dessert, the simplicity of the beet root (which was formed to look like a ravioli) was beautiful and the mignardise almost too numerous to try all of (my favorite being the classic, custardy, canele). We all left far too plump for comfort, but an indelible impression had been made on me, as each dish showed some level of creativity in flavor and presentation that city as comfortable in its food fame as New York lacks.
As you're leaving (through yet another means of egress from this secretive building), you get a copy of your menu, which has beautiful artwork on the cover, memorializing these unforgettable flavors for posterity.
Aloë was distinct every other Michelin restaurant in Stockholm and was a unique experience coming from NYC, where restaurants are comfortable to simply make you pay exorbitant prices for the food without a focus on presentation or experience, simply because it is NYC. Aloë felt like it knew it had to try not only to introduce people to new flavors, but to bring them out to the suburbs, and to Stockholm and Sweden more generally. They aren't in the Upper East Side of Manhattan, but should be, since they're better than the big names currently occupying that space.
We will hear more from Aloë, I have no doubt. This is just the beginning. I hope we would be so lucky as to entice them to consider an NYC project. read more