肥姐小食店 Fei Jie Snack Shop, is da shiznit!!!
Many of you overseas may have first heard about this place on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations: Hong Kong.
He was taken here by then blogger Josh Tse (a pioneer of HK blogging, who has since moved on to other projects), only to be yelled at by the elder owner "Fei Jie" herself. Truth be told, she is not that "fei" (chubby), not even close...but her attitude is definitely of the streets.
This shop is very easy to spot. Pretty much any given time of day, you will just need to look for the "dragon" or "snake" formation lines.
When I see lines for ramen in Hong Kong or the USA, I cringe.
But when I see a long line for perfectly marinated innards skewers here, it makes me shed a tear. Of happiness, bliss, and joy.
This is incredibly hard to explain to foreigners. And certainly many will not comprehend recommending this place to them. But for those of us who grew up eating street food (back then it was not even clean), Fei Jie is one of the last surviving classics that preserves that old school flavor.
If you love innards (mostly pork), secret delicious marinades (especially in Chiu Chow cuisine), then the skewers here are a must for you.
Follow these rules and you will not end up like George Costanza in the Soup Nazi episode of Seinfeld.
- Fei Jie, much like all other establishments is cash only. Have as close to exact change ready as possible
- Know exactly what you want before you get to the ordering counter. If not, look at the menu or counter
- Tell them if you want mustard and sweet sauce. You have to say "yes" to both
- Do not try to take photos up close. If you do it from further away or when they are not looking then more power to you.
- This is a "skewer standing bar". Find a spot on the street, but do not block the walkways or stand in front of other businesses. Trash cans nearby to dunk away the sticks and paper.
- Be prepared to instaBook/FaceGram/TwitTwat your skewer picture with one hand, while holding your skewers in another. Got mustard and sweet sauce over the skewers? Good...because they add depth, color, and clarity to your picture.
And they come out so beautifully it makes Hong Kongers weep.
So what to get?
細生腸 - small intestine
大生腸 - large intestine
墨魚 - squid (tentacles)
火雞腎 - turkey kidney
You can also get sausage or pork tongue.
I may enjoy a sexcellent tomato sauce slow braised innards dish (e.g. honeycomb tripe) Italian/Roman style, but you have to give it up to the Cantonese who also take this art form to a different level. read more