If there was ever a competition amongst night markets in HK, I'd say Temple Street would probably rank up there as my pick above the rest. Unlike the robust food options and abundant clothing options in the Taiwanese night markets, Temple Street has a significantly grittier, busier, albeit touristy feel.
Most people will argue about when the night market begins (some vendors will start as early as 5pm) but most everything should be setup by 7pm. Personally, I think it's more important to focus on when everything closes, which can be as "early" as 10pm for some of the outer skirt vendors and as late as midnight for many others.
The market itself is narrow in a way folks will just naturally bump into each other; mainly consisting of mainland Chinese tourists and Europeans. Beware of pick pockets, since this area is known for them. Disclaimer: For all the years I've attended this market, I've yet to be a victim. Knock on wood. Keep your belongings close to you in your front pocket and check after any/every bump.
There is going to be an endless array of t-shirt shops, cheap handbags, and little gadgets all over the market. Always bargain but don't push your luck if the seller isn't having it. Enjoy the dodgy characters, sketchy "patrons" bouncing from tent to tent, tarot tents for fortune readings, and random Chinese opera by senior citizens.
Food lovers should consider the shops on the side for actual food and avoid the aggressive folks on the street selling crabs or other seafood. It's not that the food is bad, but it's severely overpriced with minuscule portions. Do you see a lot of tourists eating there? Then keep walking. Head to the Dai Pai Dongs / streetside snacks that are *not* on Temple but on adjacent streets. There are better options that locals love.
All in all, this is not a market that should be rushed in 15 minutes. Allow yourself some time to head from Jordan to Yau Ma Te and do some real exploring on the local side, and see the real Hong Kong. For food alone, the better restaurants / vendors are on the Yau Ma Tei side. With the right kind of bargaining, one might come away with some fun souvenirs, cool photos, and a new appreciation for Hong Kong. Make Temple Street part of the itinerary, and enjoy the shopping. read more