It is no secret that the Basque country, around Donostia/San Sebastian boasts one of the densest areas of stellar dining. Even though there are very many well regarded, world renowned establishments such as those of Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subijana, Martin Berasategui, there are some semi hidden gems to be found. Among those would be the cuisine and hospitality of the Arbelaitz family. The brothers of this family are known in the area but not necessarily world wide. It maybe a shame or a great secret to have, depending on how you look at it.
Chef Hilario Arbelaitz run Zuberoa in a 600 year old farmhouse in the remote town of Oiartzun, one of the oldest buildings in the whole area. As you drive away from civilization, you feel your mind and the sights drift to the serene countryside. We realize that we are already lost and give the restaurant a call. They are more than happy to tell us that we need not stress and that we will be taken care of whenever we arrive. I could tell that this was going to be a spectacular dinner.
As we arrive we are greeted by two hosts, one female who happens to be the better English speaker and one male who is there to handle the throngs of French patrons who cross the border to dine. We're seated and find that on a Tuesday night, we are of a handful of patrons. As most of this trip, we waste no time going straight to the tasting menu:
-Rockfish and Sea Urchin "Royal" with essence of fennel
-Roasted Norwegian Lobster, vichyssoise, mushrooms
-Grilled oyster "Gillardeau" in its own liquor/foam, sweet onion cream
-Roasted sardine tartlet, tomatoes, basil, smoked Idiazabal cheese
-Roasted scallop, lemon, thyme tomato, coral caramel
-Poached egg, puree of foie gras, truffle, veloute of peas and asparagus
-Red Mullet, endive leaves, pumpkin, orange essence
-Roast lamb loin, mashed potatoes, sauteed vegetables
-Rosemary roast squab, potatoes, truffled cabbage
-Bitter almond and yogurt ice cream
-Tomato and strawberry "Gazpacho", chocolate, basil oil
Does it get any better than this? not really. Perhaps the greatest expression of Basque/Spanish cuisine I've had where the preservation of the traditional cooking/recipes met with modern refined technique. Perhaps one of my favorite meals of all time. This wasn't only because of the cuisine. Zuberoa also expressed the hospitality and character of the Basque people. I could not get over how well we were treated. Our server was the most ebullient and warm personality and answered all of curiosities of the restaurant and the cooking, while also showing here curiosity and interest of where we came from. After the dinner, we spoke extensively with Chef Hilario and his staff, a good hour plus, with our server being an excellent translator. They say the best gateway to a culture is to love their food and it has never been more true here. It was great to get his viewpoints of cuisine, the culture and how snooty and cold most of the French customers are :)
If you ever make your way to this area, you must make a side trip to Zuberoa. They are amongst the warmest people and excellent hosts you can find with the culinary expertise to match. read more