This was one of the most sublime experiences of my life. Sohyi Kim is an international culinary…read moresuperstar -- I can only assume that Michelin will be calling any day. The eight course tasting menu (100 euro + drinks) compares favorably with the best restaurants of New York (I'm looking at you, Brooklyn Fare). It's hard to describe just how revelatory a dining experience Sohyi has created, with a unique set of Korean-inspired dishes in a beautiful chef's table environment -- it really is Korean Kayseki meets Vienna meets Brooklyn Fare-style Asian fusion.
First, the dining experience itself is gorgeous. All meals are served in a small store front with about six tables and Sohyi herself is your guide through each of the courses. She and her small staff prepare the plates in the back of the restaurant in full view of the patrons and then she walks between the tables talking to each of us. She and her staff were a complete class act.
Second (which really should be first), there was the food. Oh my goodness; there was the food. Almost every dish was sublime and like nothing I'd had before. It's hard to give a complete listing, but this is what I remember (with stars next to the most amazing dishes):
*Gazpacho amuse bouche in a sipping cup;
Plate of five bite-size Korean inspired appetizers;
Tuna two ways -- a spoon of spicy tuna and a sashimi tuna with seaweed coating;
*Noodles in soy bean soup with cucumber pesto;
*Black noodle "patty" with pounded tuna, fermented plum, macadamia nut flour;
*Squid on top of watermelon with a spicy/sweet Asian sauce;
*Smoked sea bass with chanterelles, apricots, and French lentils; and
Apple and horseradish with a fried scallop.
And all this was even before we reached the main course: a choice between tuna sashimi and perfectly cooked steak in sesame oil, along with a host of mini-Korean dishes. Honestly, by the time we reached the main course, I and my date were pretty full, but it was very good.
Third, Sohyi really prides herself on using only local fresh ingredients and makes the sauces and toppings completely in-house. It really showed in each and every dish.
Fourth, the quality and inventiveness of many fancy tasting-course menus really peters out as the meal goes on. They start out with brilliant little bites of heaven and then get on to the more pedestrian task of actually feeding you (I'm looking at you Le Bernadin). Our meal at Kim avoided this common pitfall -- every dish was a masterpiece and frankly, kept getting better (perhaps until the main, which was just too much food and while good, wasn't as brilliant as the rest).
Basically, every true foody needs to put Vienna on the culinary map and try this place. I guarantee -- you won't be disappointed!
Note: Kim is Sohyi Kim's new restaurant following the closure of her very successful Kim Kocht in Vienna. Careful, many signs and online listings still point to Kim Kocht, but the correct location is Währinger Strasse Nr. 46, 1090 Wien and the name of her new place is Kim.