Aboard The Royal Scotsman
And the journey begins - from the charm of a bygone age as represented by the Balmoral Hotel, an elegant Victorian hotel situate at the tip of Princes Street in Edinburgh, we are taxied to Waverly Station, one of the great rail stations built during the era of Queen Victoria, its painted steel girders reaching high across the wide and many tracks. Here, with much aplomb and a resounding Bagpipe salute, we are piped on board the Royal Scotsman by a kilted piper in full Highland regalia to experience a revival of the romantic age of railway travel. This regal train decked out in Edwardian splendour but with all the modern facilities of the 20th century is a fine way to tour Scotland and England.
After enjoying a glass of champagne, the train slowly pulls away from its siding and we are on our way. 36 passengers and 14 crew in attendance to take care of our every wish, serve us delicious food and wine to indulge us in the most delightful way. A truly wonderful adventure on board the most luxurious train in the world with its rich mahogany panelling in the Dining Cars, comfortable lounge decorated in Royal Scotsman tartan hues of red and green, a library with lush palms and bowls of fresh seasonal fruit. The staterooms have ensuite bathrooms with showers and heated towel rack and are stocked with bathrobes and Molton Brown toiletries. There's lots of wardrobe space and most comfortable beds.
I stood on the observation deck with the wind whistling through my hair and watched Edinburgh disappear behind me. The rail track ran straight and true and stretched as far as the eye could see from the point we had emerged from deep in Waverly Station. Gradually the tracks narrowed down from eight, then four, and the wheels meeting the steel tracks made their own sound, 'clackety clack, clackety clack,' an insistent greeting..'welcome aboard, welcome aboard!' The further away from the city and its suburbs, the greener and more verdant the foliage and grass, and on either side of the track the long undulating mountains threw purpled shadows blending with the brightness of an early Autumn sun. Nature surely endowed this land with a loving hand. Even man's contribution has been kind and he has built with lovely pale grey stone in a most picturesque manner.
Now the tracks narrowed down to two and on the Observation Deck protected by the overhang, those of us brave enough to defy the wind were served wine and appetizers. Soon even the hardiest went inside to enjoy the deep comfy chairs and settees and I was left watching the ever changing scenery of the Clyde estuary, its sand flats inhabited by white winged gulls. Then the shining waters of Loch Lowe and Loch Lomond and a view of Ben Arthur with its distinctive peak set amidst deeply bosomed hills. The breathtaking forests, their multi-varied foliages ranging in colours from pale mist grey to deep glossy green and the last purple heather bravely facing the cooler temperatures as Autumn comes to this bright and shining land.
In the afternoon we arrived at Dalmally and disembarked to visit Inverawe Smokehouse. This family-run Smokery is situate on the West Coast of Scotland amongst the great Highland mountains overlooking the lower reaches of the River Awe. Here Robert Campbell-Preston took us through the many stages of salmon curing, from the slicing of the locally caught fish to the last stages of smoking using the old-world traditional and not the modern time-saving kilns. Robert has a very dry wit and held us fascinated by his knowledge, and laughing continuously at his quite cynical remarks which I totally agree with, how the plasticated era has taken over and so many foodstuffs are losing their taste, quality and individuality in the mad rush to make enormous profits. Afterwards, we were invited to the Campbell-Preston's fascinating 17th century Scottish manorhouse with its painted walls, and wooden panelling to sample the many delicate varieties of sliced smoked salmon, trout and a variety of delicate pates accompanied by wine served by Rose Campbell-Preston. A food tip for gourmets, treat smoked salmon like you'd treat a bottle of red wine, lay the slices on a plate two hours before eating to achieve the best results.
Early in the morning the Royal Scotsman departs Taynuilt and outside my window pale, ghostly branches poke out of the mist as darkness gives way to a watery dawn. Over the hills the early sun is reflected off water falling down the steeply wooded hills burning away the last vestiges of morning mist. The train clacks on following the narrow shelf carved in the hillside between the slopes of Ben Cruachan and the River Awe. Time for breakfast and truly 'twas a pleasure munching on hot brown toast and fresh cooked kippers, their glistening scales reflecting the sunlight streaming through the windows of the train as it huffed and puffed past Stirling with its magnificent Royal Castle . read more
