Jan 11 & Apr 11…read more
You can only live in Dartmouth so long before you end up at downtown stalwart Celtic Corner, and that's where my wife and I found ourselves on a post-holidays weekend, when looking for a relaxed meal.
We leaned into the Irish options on the menu (don't you dare call them British!), as I ordered the Trinity Steak Boxty, and my wife went with the Curry 'N' Chips, with added chicken.
Our food came out to us in quick order, and we were soon happily chomping away on our brown foods
My wife's curry and chips is a pub classic, and while I appreciate that the curry was served on the side and not making the fries soggy, it is very not visually appealing to see plain diced chicken on a pile of fries. Once it got a dousing of the curry sauce it looked a little better, but let's be honest, a dish of assorted shades of yellow and brown isn't winning any beauty contests anytime soon.
When reading the menu, I had incorrectly remembered the boxty as a pastry dish. However, while it is a dish of meat and sauce in a carb shell, it's actually more rustic than a pastry, with the exterior comprised of shredded potatoes.
The potato pancake had a significant char on the edges that was just seconds from being full-on burnt, but the flavour (and crisp edges) worked well with the indulgently rich filling of steak, mushrooms and onions in a cream sauce. I'm happy to note that the bits of tenderloin were pleasantly tender and not at all dry, which isn't always the case in these sorts of dishes.
Service was attentive and friendly throughout our meal.
A return visit saw us returning on a bustling Friday evening during Burger Week Bash. I wasn't on a Burger Bash mission, but I figured that I would have the opportunity to try regular menu items many times in the future, plus I had a blood donation scheduled for the following week and I could use the iron top-up.
The Irish Burger was a hefty, half-pound patty (a mix of lamb and pork), topped with red cabbage, goat cheese, fried onions and a garlic aioli.
I appreciated the unique mix of meats for the patty, and while I'm not confident in a high lamb content, it did have a good, meaty flavour and had a decent crust on it, although it was a little overworked or compacted and too dense as a result. Some people hate on smash burgers for their ubiquity, but that style of burger avoids things like this.
The toppings all kinda got lost together in the creamy mess of the goat cheese, but they worked fairly well; saltiness, savouriness, and a hint of crispness from the slaw and fried onions.
A brioche-ish bun was nicely toasted and held up well against the onslaught.
My wife's maple curry pasta felt like a flashback to the 2000s when this dish was on the cutting edge of Canadian fusion cuisine. It was familiar and approachable, and it was nice that they had a gluten-free pasta option as well.
The Celtic Corner could use a menu revamp and upgrade their plating, but it's still a welcoming neighbourhood local that's served Dartmouth for many years, and will do so for many more to come.