A family birthday celebration took us to The Coach in Marlow. Now a pub run by Tom Kerridge. It's unassuming, small and uninteresting on the outside but it's modern, clean and interesting on the inside. The set-up is of a traditional pub with the bar taking up the majority of the space and small tables around. The kitchen is quietly in the corner in an open plan fashion. There is no pass and instead, the food is taken behind the bar to the other side to be dispensed to tables. The bar is a total waste of space considering this place has a huge emphasis on food.
Speaking of the main event, the menu is a little weirdly laid out, with meat and no meat options which included fish, but no indication of dish sizes. It turns out they were all tapas sized plates.
We ordered alot of plates, some double. These were the dishes which were outstanding, 10/10's:
Mushroom risotto: no rice, just chopped mushrooms in a luxuriously creamy sauce, absolute heaven for a mushroom fanatic such as myself
Fish fritter: just one piece in the end, served with excellent tartare sauce and a smooth pea puree. This is how fried fish should be, perfect in taste, cooking and textures
Chips: served with excellent bearnaise sauce, crunchy, tasty, triple-cooked beauties, but small for £4.50
Burger: an boring dish you might think, but not here. A mini slider bun with a much much bigger burger than you would expect with onion, tomato and beef brisket. The burger was excellent in taste and execution
Chicken Kiev: well cooked, crispy, yummy garlic butter and tender meat
The 9/10's:
Scotch eggs: I'm not a fan of smoked fish but found these gentle with a well-considered combination of smoked haddock and black pudding. They came sitting in a little pool of spiced sauce which was delicious.
Duck parfait: silky smooth, probably passed through a cloth, served with brioche. Salty, tasty and moreish
7/10's:
Ham terrine: wrapped in a leaf of some sort, served beautifully with pickled vegetables and a lovely sauce. Sourdough came on the side with mustard butter. The flavour of the ham didn't impress me but others at the table disagreed
Pork belly: again, excellent presentation but flavour wasn't outstanding
6/10's:
Steak tartare: no flavour from the meat, didn't help that the sauce was overpowering. This was, however, beautifully presented on a rye/sourdough cracker and with a mini fried egg and capers etc
Ox tongue: a plate of 2 halves, the tongue was thin and flavourless and the little croquette of ox cheek (I think) was 9/10
Overall, the food was extremely interesting, well-executed, full of thought, care, genuine desire to balance flavours and, as I have said, presented absolutely beautifully. I love the vibe of the menu, I would say the menu doesn't read hugely well or present the dishes in the light it deserves. But when they arrived, the flavours mostly matched the visual attraction. So much thought has been put into the sauces, the garnishes, the style in which a simple sounding dish comes across and the quality of cooking.
I would say the service let's the place down. Drinks took ages to come, water wasn't filled up automatically, different waitresses would ask the same questions, some of the food came out very quickly, some so slowly, we thought they'd been forgotten, I'm talking 30minutes for a burger. Cold dishes didn't necessarily come out first and not all the waitresses took it well when we asked where our food was.
Add to that the small number of tables, the lack of reservations and the cost, it's a 4 stars. But some of the food was 6 stars. I already want to go back. read more