Abstract: Terrarium showcases both the brilliance and the sorrow of a reborn city.
I'm not emotionally prepared to write this review. Anyone who saw me wander into Terrarium yesterday would probably snort upon reading these words, because frankly, I had a short, uneventful visit at this new greenhouse-esque beer bar.
The emotions arrive because of change - change in Portland that has been happening for two, three decades now, change that exploded (and imploded) during the pandemic, change that has altered the landscape of my city nearly beyond recognition.
It's "Solastalgia" - that is, "a sense of loss relating to a place, while remaining in the same place". The term relates to climate change, but I am borrowing it to describe the human tide that has washed over Portland, cleaned it up, but somehow sanitised it.
I think it's important for new businesses and the people from away that run many of them to understand the complicated relationship that Portland natives like myself have with them. We want the good coffee, craft beer, unique restaurants. We're happy when people get nominated for James Beard Awards, open a second location, when the magazines write about our little foodie city. Yet the change comes so rapidly!
It is bittersweet. Would most of us want to go back to the decrepit, rundown old port of the 90s? Probably not. I wouldn't. But I often feel loss. Loss of affordable housing for locals, loss of community, loss of "localness". Solastalgia.
So I walk into Terrarium. I think of these things as I walk between the beautiful, vibrant, green corridors. These are complicated emotions to feel, but I feel soothed by the tranquility that seems to resonate from the plants themselves. It's noticeably a "notch down". Thinking back, I can't remember whether or not there was any music playing (it is a bar, after all), but frankly, that tells you everything you need to know.
Terrarium passes the vibe check. It connects you to your roots, pun intended. You walk in, laugh for a moment (it's an off the wall idea, isn't it? Drink beer and build a terrarium?), and then realise, hey, it's nice in here. These plants are pretty. Green is a nice color, this is calming, why don't we have more green inside our stores, shops, restaurants? Wait, I can take that plant home over there? I can have one too many beers and end up bringing that giant Dracaena Marginata home? What even is that? Oh well, I own it now. I hope it's potty-trained.
You get the idea. What seems a little silly, off the wall, perhaps too-strange-to-work, ends up WORKING. It's not a gimmick, it's not a novelty (although I doubt many of us will build a terrarium weekly, or even monthly), it just happens to fill a niche for those who don't like paint bars, subscription whiskey services, or sandwich of the club month.
At $42** to build a terrarium, I wasn't included to immediately plop down and shell out the cash, but since yesterday, the idea has been growing on me. They have high quality materials to make it happen, you can get your hands in the dirt, or leave it to professional implements, or heck, you can just shoot the breeze with a fellow green thumb (or a wanna be green thumb) over a pint or two. Why wouldn't I invite a friend or two to do something unique? Why wouldn't I recommend it to a couple hopelessly lost tourists that just want to get off their feet? Why wouldn't I mention it to my book club?
**As the owner states below, it sounds like this is the "most deluxe" option and that other terrariums cost less. The more you know
There are a couple things I found odd, such as the pairing of beers/soups and not much else, but that could just be me. I suppose on a cozy fall evening, building a terrarium, sipping a beer and slurping your soup could be quite appealing. The bar itself seems a bit small for the space, but perhaps I am just remembering Terrarium's predecessor, the tiki bar Rhum, and its massive, oversized vibe (good riddance, Rhum).
The proprietors are a lovely couple and seem passionate about the idea. My only concern for them is the actual location as it just doesn't get much foot traffic, which I think was part of Rhum's demise. That said, this idea is different - not a bar to happen upon, but an session to book or a friend to meet somewhere a little quieter. It's not 1 of 100 in Portland, it is 1 of 1.
So cheers to Terrarium. It is the creativity that our city needs to continue to be the excellent place it is. Bring your kids, your dog, your grandma (it is a bit of a younger crowd, but business is business, I am sure the owners would say).
Drink a beer, buy a plant, smell some soil. You won't regret it. read more