La Verniaz review:…read more
This review is in both French and English:
Après sa vente à une société qatari en 2014, l'établissement a connu des années de catastrophe. Heureusement, une nouvelle famille, les Thiébaut, l'a racheté cette année et le gère plutôt à la mode des Verdier, qui le tenaient depuis trois générations : ils habitent à la propriété, s'occupent des détails que l'on ne peut pas diriger de loin, ils ont mis la cuisine aux normes, redécoré les chambres, et peu à peu font les changements nécessaires. Tout le charme du vieil hôtel reste cependant intact: la cage de l'ascenseur, les vieilles gravures aux murs, les meubles du 19e et avant. Seule une rose du jardin, fraîchement cueillie par Madame Verdier, manquait.
La cuisine a retrouvé tout son excellence. L'hôtel offre une excellente demi-pension, dont nous avons profité pendant notre séjour cette année.
Why do we love this hotel?
We've gone here for many years, and except for a three-year "blip" when it was owned by a corporation--now happily over--La Verniaz has consistently delighted its guests.
1. Space. We never feel crowded here. This is one of the things that makes us feel most at home. The dining rooms, guest rooms, pool and cottages are spread out over two hectares (nearly five acres). The rooms are spacious, and most of them have large balconies. There's a large garden to relax and read under the plane trees. In the dining room, the tables are placed far conversations remain private.
2. Location. Overlooking the milky blue of Lac Leman, the hotel is surrounded by pastures and old properties bordered by chestnut trees. It's not unusual to see riders on horseback on the country roads. Nearby, a century-old cog railway (recently refurbished) leads down to the spa town of Evian and to its many attractions: the Thermes; the Casino; the Palais Lumière, now a museum; shops, and a theatre. Above the hotel, the Plateau du Gavot and the foothills of the Alps are perfect for hiking. On the first Sunday of August, peasants in traditional dress, from all over the region, parade in the "Gavotine" in nearby St. Paul.
For international travellers, La Verniaz is located about an hour from the Geneva airport. From the New York area, there are several flights daily.
Note: Getting back to the airport can be tricky, as the Swiss signs are very inconsistent; allow plenty of extra time, or spend the last night near the airport.
And also: The Geneva airport has two sectors, the main Swiss one and a much smaller French one. Be sure to check which sector your flight departs from; otherwise it can be disastrous!
3. Romance. With its garden setting, balconies, and romantic restaurant, La Verniaz is long on charm. The rooms have been renovated to combine tradition with a more modern vibe. The tiled baths are large, some with both a tub and a stall shower. The place has lost none of its romance.
4. Fine dining. Even if you don't stay here, the cuisine is once again first rate. For guests of the hotel, demi pension can be arranged (they require a day or two advance notice). We were consistently delighted with the offerings.
5. Families. With its country setting, spaciousness, relaxed atmosphere, swimming pool (protected by a fence), proximity to the Plateau and to Evian, La Verniaz is perfect for families.
6. Older travellers. And yet, long after the children have left for summer camp, or even for the university, La Verniaz continues to call us back. We are among the couples who return each year, sometimes for several weeks. What we love most is what the French call "détente": the opportunity to relax and unwind completely after a long and busy year.
