In the calmest Sunday afternoon hours we stopped by a new gaff wedged between Pizzeria Rio and the bottle-o for a beer and a late lunch, just before a jaunt to the cinema. Colourful, oozing style, with a wonderful soundtrack and a distinctly European flair, I utterly adored it. From the impressive meal it opened with to the delicate dessert creations that formed a centrepiece, I found it a wholly rewarding experience, and remarkable value. I have decided to rate The Grand Budapest Hotel five stars.
Oh, the small bar? Right... Right. Unlike Wes Anderson's new opus, it was sadly generic. Since the franchise of Small Bars™ first opened up in Erskineville and Crows Nest to 'ooh's and 'ahh's, Sydney's been overrun by similarly cramped spaces repurposed to sell booze to workaday alcoholics. I have to admit that this one does use its space well; I walked by in its first week and was amazed, peering in, by what looked to be some genuine nightlife going on in the shoebox compartment. On Sunday it was airy and spacious and inviting. But there's not much identity to it beyond that - it's just an inoffensive place to get a beer. Do we need that so desperately, anymore? I'm not so sure.
The greater issue is that this bar also takes pains to laud its own kitchen - it's right there in the title! But the food - again, unlike the film, which I highly recommend - is not good value Each tapas-style plate was meagre and uninspired in creation; dry cubes of chicken breast, "jerked", were small enough to make a half-dozen McNuggets look like a hunger buster; the whitebait is about a third of the size of the one they sell upstairs at Street Market; and I have to say that it's the smallest plate of chips I've ever seen. They weren't even great - soft, rather than crisp, and unseasoned. A fine chip needs no aioli. These do. Half a dozen pricey shared plates later and I remained largely unsated.
If you're looking for your seventh Marlborough Sav-Blanc of the week and a snack to tide you over between brunch and secondsies, check out Small Bar and Kitchen. If you want to experience something interesting and fill your belly, go see the Grand Budapest Hotel and order a large popcorn. read more