I am forced to reiterate Edaly's comment that Macallister's review is 'well wide of the mark'. Let us take that rather lengthy and repetitive piece of writing in context: it is clear that Macallister has an inherent problem with Tottenham as an area. His opening salvo suggesting it is 'hard to criticise' given San Marco's 'location in London' should already ring alarm bells for the educated and wary reader. His constant suggestion throughout his appallingly unjustified attack on this excellent and honest family restaurant that it suffers from not being in 'any of the better London post codes' and that only if the price and 'expectation of what you are going to get was lowered' would this 'be a perfectly acceptable Italian restaurant for this area of London'. Having therefore discredited Macallister's writing as being a public expression of a private and obviously very personal issue with the N17 Post Code, I should now like to appraise the efforts of San Marco in a somewhat more rational and indeed untroubled manner; starting with the food itself rather than any comments regarding the furnishings or decorations. This is after all, a restaurant review, not a feedback page for cheap Channel 5 makeovers.
San Marco's menu is exactly what it claims to be: simple, honest, Classic Italian food. It does not offer the nouvelle cuisine and so called 'modern' cleverness of certain current TV Cooking Personalities, though excellent examples of this genre are readily available within the postcode, as Macallister is no doubt aware....
What San Marco does offer is a reliable menu that is never bland, cooked with passion and supported by the interest of a constantly changing 'Daily Specials' feature that has in the past offered Veal Cutlets basted with Rosemary and infused olive oil, Duck Breasts with fresh cherries, and Red Snapper fresh from the fish market that morning. The rest of the menu is then made up by exquisitely presented Italian classics ranging from pasta and seafood specialties to meats and vegetarian dishes including steaks cooked to perfection.
These can be served with either the more traditional Italian accompaniments of spaghetti with a sauce of your choice, or you can enjoy slightly more British fare with freshly prepared seasonal vegetables - local produce of course. If your taste buds are still itching for titillation then try one of the desserts - either the (again) specials of the day or the always available homemade fruit pies that use produce grown in the owner's small orchard.
The wine list boasts some of Italy's best offerings, and unlike the exorbitant prices that reflect neither the advice of a well-versed sommelier nor even the family pet available in many other London post codes (yes, Macallister, I thought you'd know what I'm talking about), the appearance of each and every bottle on the San Marco list is a declaration of quality in itself - not that you would necessarily guess this from the very reasonable charges. Must be that damn post code problem again...
In conclusion, if you enjoy excellent food at competitive prices with a traditional and authentic feel, then this restaurant is well worth the journey. The service is extremely efficient and friendly, making you feel completely welcome and at ease. The decor, which includes subtle lighting and creates a very intimate atmosphere, does at times betray the longevity of this restaurant's existence, but also reflects the love, care and dedication put into this wonderful local treasure throughout generations of expertise. read more