This has two trailheads, so please note that the pin drop here on Yelp (as of today) is on the…read moreMillcreek Canyon side. If you're looking to hike to Desolation Lake, you can make it there on this trailhead, but it's the loooooong way. For the most direct way to Desolation Lake, you'll want the Beartrap Fork Trail #057, located one canyon to the south in Big Cottonwood Canyon, here: https://www.yelp.com/biz/beartrap-fork-trail-057-salt-lake-city
Now that's settled, let's talk about the Desolation Trail. As alluded to above, this is actually quite a long trail that straddles the hump between Millcreek and Big Cottonwood Canyons. Arguably, the most popular section of the hike is here at the Millcreek side, as it delivers hikers a nifty vista after a few miles.
First, find the trailhead by going east up Millcreek Canyon. You'll pass the series of Cub Scout and Boy Scout camps on the south side, and come to the Church Fork Picnic area on the north (left) side. Once you pass that, the South Box Elder Picnic Area appears on the south (right) and this is where the trailhead begins.
The trailhead hosts a small pit toilet building but there is no available electricity or water, so bring your own before you arrive. There are a few small picnic tables on a first come-first served basis, as well as the Edmund Ellsworth picnic area, which can be reserved ahead of time.
Begin the ascent behind the restrooms and you'll see a few signs to begin: first, note that the beginning of the hike is on private property. The Boy Scouts allow the public trail to cross the property, so be nice, and stay on trail. The other sign you see is a mileage indicator which reads:
Salt Lake Valley Overlook 2
Thaynes Canyon 3
Porter Fk. Trail 8.5
Mill B North Fk. 9
Bowman Fk. 10.5
Dog Lake 16.5
Desolation Lake 18
Far and away, the most popular hike here is the Salt Lake Valley Overlook. Though marked at 2, it's arguably more like 2.2, making a nice but challenging 4.4 mile round trip activity. This is infinitely doable as an after-work hike in the long days of summer, and even in less illuminated conditions the trail is well worn and can be accomplished on days when you sneak out of the office early.
Expect to see lots of traffic those first few miles. Also note that Millcreek Canyon is a popular spot for dog owners, and dogs are allowed on trails and offleash on odd-numbered days of the month. If pups ain't your thing, stick to even-numbered leash days, or skip to the south for the dog-prohibited Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons.
The Salt Lake Valley Overlook is as far as I've taken the trail from Millcreek. On the other side, I've run around BCC, Dog Lake, and Desolation Lake as a younger fellow and trail is remarkably similar. Expect to find shorter but thick foliage in sunnier, lower elevations. As you rise or find shady sides of the canyon, you can find stands of pine and other evergreens. The flowers light up from early spring and take turns all season; scarlet gilia, lupine, the occasional mountain aster, Indian paintbrush, and many others.
The trailhead sits at about 5750ft in elevation. Salt Lake Valley Overlook takes you to just over 7000ft. It's never technical, the trail is almost exclusively dirt (read: dusty in the summer) but it's a constant climb and can get the best of less-than-seasoned hikers. Still, it's a good choice if you have a healthy group.
The full Desolation Trail (which, as far as I can tell, ends at Desolation Lake) maps out on paper to be 16 miles, but is listed at 18. The lake itself sits at just over 9200 ft, so you shouldn't be surprised that the Desolation Trail is a constant climb for over 6 miles before calming down and dropping to around 8800ft over the next 7 or so miles, reaching Dog Lake, dropping to around 8300, and then lifting back up over the 9K mark to reach the waters of Desolation. Here again, you're looking at high elevation forest, although never terribly thick, and a lot of shrub and deciduous groves.
Pack plenty of water, even if you're just headed to the overlook. Some of it is exposed, and it's a pretty dry hike. Sunblock is a must, because no matter what time of day or season, you're going to pass stretches that are exposed.
We're spoiled to have something like this, and all the other great trails, so close to us in SLC. the Salt Lake Valley Overlook is quite the sight, and that's just about 2 miles away. The whole journey -- one I've not completed in a continuous slog, to be clear -- is on my conquer list and a real treat for anyone looking to head for the hills on a summer day.