I was in the restaurant business for a long time, and there's nothing I love more than a new culinary experience. I've followed this restaurant on Insta for years, and despite our 1-2 months per year in Finland, this was our first opportunity to try Nokka because we're usually dining with family at home. I was so excited that our meeting ended hours early in the last couple of hours of service on one of the last days of the lunchtime Christmas menu--what luck! We figured we could at least squeeze in a tasting to tempt us back for a full dinner when we next had a night in Helsinki.
We'd just arrived off the boat from Stockholm that morning, so although we were dressed nicely, my husband and I each had small backpacks with us. I was a little concerned about showing up so encumbered and about wanting to "snack" rather than order a full meal, but the staff who greeted us were initially friendly. We explained that we were heading out that evening on the train and were expected home for dinner--we just wanted a drink, appetizers, and dessert from the a la carte, if that was possible. They said certainly, took our coats and the backpacks, and ushered us to a table in the near-empty dining room.
The warm Christmas "glögi" was suggested to us, and after seeing all the unique pairings on Insta (of white pine needle and lemon verbena liquer, for example) I had high expections. The drink was just OK--in fact, the worst I've had in Finland, Estonia, Sweden, and Germany. It hit one sweet note of apple. What would have been fine in a pub was disappointing here. We then ordered the appetizer plates (3), and a glass of wine (as we'd explained before we were seated). The server was brusque and seemed annoyed that we weren't ordering more. We said we had a train to catch, and wanted to make sure we had time to order dessert afterward. She upped the pressure and said we had to order everything all at once, including dessert. (In other words, it was an hour from the end of her shift, and she had no intention of sticking around any longer than she had to for people who weren't ordering the full chef's menu.) I insisted on waiting.
The appetizer boards arrived, beautifully presented. Each bite-sized piece was a masterpiece of visual and mechanical craftsmanship. The beet cube was not a cube at all, but impossibly thin slices layered atop one another, their flavor fanning out on the tongue in a way that makes you wonder why you'd ever eat a beet any other way. But that's all it was--a thinly sliced beet. The mushroom salad cup was good, but as my Finnish husband said, it was no different than the mushroom salad you buy at Citymarket for a fraction of the price. The cup was precisely executed and brought additional flavor, but when I asked the young man who'd delivered it to our table about the ingredients and methods used, he either had no idea or didn't care to answer. He said it was just bread. The blini was again perfectly executed. The texture was perfect. The flavors? Hard to find. The deer tongue was very good. The way it was prepared, in aspic, disguised the texture, which I usually find difficult to swallow, and delivered an artful twist. But overall, I'd say the appetizers were style over substance. I don't even remember the fifth appetizer in the sample. The bread they served was good, too. Technically delightful, but in need of a more interesting spread to complement it.
The selection of Finnish cheeses was a mere two types, but I'm partial to cheese, and one of the two was the best cheese I've ever had in Finland. The man who delivered the food provided the name for us, and we'll certainly search for it in the market. Finding this cheese is the only reason I don't regret stopping for lunch.
Once the food we'd ordered was on the table, we became invisible to our server. My husband wanted a glass of wine, after all. We ran out of water. And by the time we were able to flag down our server, we'd run out of time for dessert even if we'd still wanted it. But after the mediocre appetizer flavors, we were no longer intrigued. We asked for the check--and then waited 25 minutes. I even got up and walked around the restaurant looking for her, but she was nowhere to be found. I ended up going to the bar and asking to pay there, which we did, with just enough time to make our train.
I suspect that we were pegged by our backpacks and desire for a lighter meal, and treated as if we were not invested in the food, the ethos, and in a return visit. As another reviewer said, "commodified and coasting" perhaps? Certainly, there was an undercurrent of snooty attitude that helped to make the visit less than pleasant. Honestly, if someone else were paying, I may give this place another chance, given all the great reviews. But I don't think you could pay my husband to set foot in Nokka again.
I feel like I fell in love online, but when we met in person, I realized I'd been catfished. read more