As Mere Green flagged and even wilted in the wake of a doomed regeneration bid, as businesses seemed to depart daily, as pubs called time for the last time, this bar single-handedly continued to breathe life into the area.
In a way, then, you could argue that the Speckled Hen had simply claimed popularity by default, siphoning off displaced regulars from four surrounding watering holes (Flints, Barley's, Apres and Halfway House; the sites of each of these now resurrected, three as new bars). But that would be to deny the Hen's charms which persisted beyond the circumstances of others.
Firstly, it's big and bright; its glazed doors opening, in summer, onto its sizeable and leafy outdoor seating area. Then there's the bar. A comprehensive wine and spirits list is not undermined by tired lagers, but well-kept continental brews and real English ales, including, of course, Speckled Hen. But where the venue really comes into its own is with a huge, spacious dining area which seems busy from 5.30pm and well into the evening.
The menu is extensive, the food is good, and breakfasts were a welcome addition some years ago. Yet while its intent as a dry sales-focused enterprise is clear, it doesn't impinge on the concurrent bid to offer an attractive, thriving, easygoing and pretty much stand-alone bar. For the post-work crowd to those seeking dressing-up-worthy nightlife a little more sophisticated than a chain pub, while avoiding hipper-than-thou boys and WAG-a-bees, the Hen ticks all the boxes. Expect it to be busy on Friday and Saturday evenings, where live music can boost numbers rather than send people diving for cover. read more