Like Coming Home Again.
I'll begin with full disclosure as I don't normally review restaurants I have a direct, ongoing association with however the fact that I was their former beverage director circa 2010 has no baring on my views as a recent customer.
Mona Lisa sprawls squat on the little hill it's always perched upon right at the mouth of Wolcott. Although I had kept in contact with its owners and a few members of staff throughout the years, it had been some time since I visited in any capacity. With nothing but time on my hands, I find myself traveling to my hometown of Waterbury more frequently and when faced with the decision of where to eat in that barren wasteland, Mona Lisa won the cointoss not just for its nostalgic value but for being the only truly reliable place to get decent food inside a ten mile radius.
So my townee buddy and I bellied up to the bar and while it wasn't the most unexpected thing in the world for me to show up, the owners Sam and Shathy were overtly welcoming and warm as ever. They're like your kindly regarded yet seldom seen aunt and uncle and they intended to fawn over you as if they were.
Sam is also the head chef and his resourcefulness and creativity in the kitchen is only belabored by his epicly oversized and aging menu. I was pleased to note he'd cut things down just a little in response to covid but even foreshortened the menu is formidable. After so very many years in business, there are menu items that, were they to drop them from the menu, a riot would ensue so I certainly understand the dogged commitment to the classics.
And why not? They're still damn good. My friend had a Swiss Burger, still ranked in my top 5 of all time and I the Sam's Special Chicken-- a stuffed chicken breast with scallop, shrimp, asparagus, et all, egg washed and pan fried and smothered in a drinkable cream sauce-- which I would choose as my death row meal. More than a decade later and they're still prepared with the same quality of ingredients and the same level of care as when they first opened the doors.
My old friend Mona Lisa is showing her age in many other regards however at this stage in the game, their reputation for excellence among the locals and the shocking amount of familiar customer faces from back in the day still dining in have both cemented its lot and its identity. I rarely say this about any restaurant of this style but any attempt to modernize or revamp would not only be futile, it would be foolish as it would erase the archaic charm people have grown so very attached to.
Mona is not a museum and those within are not fossils but it is something of a time capsule. It's that rare gem of an experience that takes you out of time. Here, the Parker House rolls are still baked fresh and wrapped in linens. Your meal still begins with a salad or soup dujour. And yes, you must stick around for one of Shathy's home made desserts.
To some seeing the ol' girl for the first time, Mona Lisa may seem quaintly antiquated but their mistake is in thinking this a weakness. Rather, Mona's ability to evoke a different era of true hospitality is their greatest strength. They've been around in one form or another for over 30 years and as Sam will certainly outlive us all, he'll be serving up Sam's Chicken for the next 30 without a doubt. read more