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    Middle Sister

    4.0 (1 review)

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    9 years ago

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    Broken Top Mountain

    Broken Top Mountain

    4.5(2 reviews)
    9.9 km

    Depending on your experience level and head-space, this is either an extremely heady "hike" or an…read moreeasy climb. This is 99% a hike, but once you near the summit, you will definitely have to do some rock climbing moves. They are easy moves, easier than anything you'd find in a rock gym, but the rock is a little loose. This is the Oregon Cascades after all, where the mountains feel like they are made out of epoxy and kitty litter! The summit views are tremendous though. Almost all the Oregon Cascades are visible (from N-to-S): Hood, Jefferson, The Three Sisters (this is an excellent place to photograph South Sister), Bachelor, etc. The best views though, are peering right down into the massive summit crater of Broken Top. Bring a wide-angle lens! Expect this to take a full day. I recommend starting EARLY. (before sunrise)

    This is one of my favorite mountains to climb, but also one of the more dangerous hikes I have been…read moreon. This mountain looks as if it has blown its top, but according to a couple of geology classes I have taken, the cone at the top has been eroded by glaciers. Which is almost as cool. Another noticeable feature to this mountain is its location compared to the other mountains in the Cascade Range in this area. The Three Sisters, Mount Bachelor, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Thielson are all in the same linear path. But Broken Top is west of this path. What is important about that is that when you get to the top of Broken Top you are actually given a different perspective of the other mountains. You are looking at the Cascade Moutain Range as if you are flying above them. Now if you combine this with the fact that you can drive pretty close to the base of this mountain. You have a pretty awesome combination. There are a couple ridges that you can take to get to the top of Broken Top. I have only been on the southern ridges. From what I am told, this is not the safest path to take. I don't recommend it unless you are an experienced climber. My friends and I took this path because it is the shortest. The downside is that it is fairly steep and does not lead you to officially summit the top. We both had some close calls on this ridge. The terrain is so steep that once you misstep and start sliding you have a really hard time stopping. I had started to slide on this ridge a couple of times and was very lucky to have caught my arm on some rocks before sliding off of a cliff. Next time we will be sure to take the ridge to the north. From what I am told, it is longer but much safer and takes you to the official summit. The hike itself is very beautiful. You start above the treeline somewhat and follow the trailhead. You will find an old canal and some melting glaciers in the summertime. Once you enter the valley you will see that you are inside the bowl of Broken Top. Everyone I have talked to seems to all agree that this reminds you of the video game Halo. As the bowl looks like the giant halo around the planet that you see. From here you will want to pick the ridge you plan on climbing up. I recommend passing on the south ridge and walk around to the north ridge. This trail is located in the three sisters wilderness and it important to remember that help is not close. So you will want to be extra careful. As you may not even have cell coverage. The terrain and the ecology around here are fragile, so you will want to be respectful and travel along durable paths and not leave any trash on the ground. Obey the rules and make safe decisions and you will have a five-star experience. Here is a link to the land management agency that manages this land https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/deschutes/recarea/?recid=38808 Here is a lin to a map and elevation gain and loss to the different routes https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/oregon/broken-top-trail Here are some more summit tips on this mountain http://www.summitpost.org/broken-top/150574

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    Broken Top Mountain
    Broken Top Mountain
    Broken Top Mountain

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    Three Fingered Jack - Lunch break view

    Three Fingered Jack

    3.7(3 reviews)
    37.0 km

    Didn't know we could review the mountains. That's funny. Jack is a great mountain looks best with…read moresnow on him.

    See that craggy, busted, pinnacle of friable rock on your right as you're driving into Bend from…read morePortland? The one just north of that nipple-looking one*? That's Three Fingered Jack. If you happen to live in Oregon and also happen to want to do some *alpine* rock climbing in Oregon, this is one of your only choices. (that nipple I describe above is your other) The rock quality on both is horrendous. If this rock were in Washington or California, no one would climb it. It breaks, it sheds, it's hard to protect. It reminds me of the Chugach up here in Alaska. At least the approach is short. Take the PCT north for about 3-4 miles. Eventually, you'll see TFJ (if you want to be seen as kewl by other peak baggers, this is how you should represent this mountain in text). You really, truly, cannot miss it. Once you see it, pick the least horrible way to hoof it up the loose dirt/gravel/scree/choss and up onto the higher parts of the peak. Eventually, you'll come to an awkward traverse. This is "The Crawl**". Some folks protect TC, some folks don't. I climbed it protected because I was new to all things alpine and someone else rigged up all the ropes for me. I didn't find it to be that bad. Would I climb it unprotected? Maybe. Should you? I don't know dude, risk management is a personal thing. Maybe you should think about it for a while. After negotiating TC, you'll reach the summit block. This pillar of petrified poo is rated at 5.0-5.2 depending on which crusty, old-timey mountaineer you ask. The climbing is easy, but it doesn't protect all that well. People usually plug some small cams. I'm very comfortable taking a fall on small cams when compared to my peer-group. I don't think the placements here are very good. Remember rule 000001 of climbing: don't fall. If you're just a hiker, I would NOT recommend YOLO-ing up this fucker in your Keens! This is easy rock climbing, but it is absolutely rock climbing. This ain't no scramble, go back to Chow if you're looking for one of those! There's usually a whole mess of tat on the summit, so you can rappel back down the small face of portable-chickenhead-hand-holds. Despite the abysmal rock quality, TFJ is still worth tagging. Once. Why? The approach is short and the views of Mt Jefferson are stunning. (FYI cool kid: if you want to sound hip when talking about Mt Jefferson, call it "Jeffy". Also: talk constantly about how the only route worth doing is Jeff Park Glacier. But *never* call it that, just shorten it to "Jeff Park") If you're feeling really freaky, you can also easily attempt TFJ in the winter. The road is plowed. The summit block? It's often coated in beautiful-but-impossible-to-protect rhyme ice. Good luck, friend. *The nipple is Mt Washington. **When I lived in Oregon, I found that TC was a good benchmark for gauging the mental toughness of prospective climbing partners. If you want to do this too, it could go like this: "Hey, you ever climb TFJ?" "Yeah bro." "So...whudja think of 'The Crawl'?" "Fawk brah, that shit was easy! I could've sprinted through it in my Crocs!" That guy could be someone you want to climb with. He could be a confident, sure-footed climber and a natural leader. Or he could just be a loose-cannon with a deathwish. Use your own judgment. Pay attention to body language.

    Photos
    Three Fingered Jack - Such a young punk!

    Such a young punk!

    Three Fingered Jack - The Crawl

    The Crawl

    Three Fingered Jack - Summit block

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    Summit block

    Middle Sister - hiking - Updated May 2026

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