Undergrowth Coffee is the perfect neighborhood place to get a little work done, relax, or converse…read morewith a barista about international coffee varieties or home-made oat milk - all while sipping on an iced coffee or taking bites from a delicious baked treat. I stopped by earlier this morning, loved it, and will definitely be coming in again.
As soon as I walked into Undergrowth, I was greeted by an incredibly friendly barista who directed me to seating in the front and rear of the space. The shop has outdoor seating on Magazine street, as well as high-top seating by the window, a couple bar stools behind their espresso machine, and a few two-person tables along the wall. Among art, photography, and other trinkets - plants seemed to be thriving in the ample natural light of the storefront, on the counter of the barista station, atop the fridge or hanging in the window - which I felt contributed to the lively ambiance of the space. I also appreciated the green-painted walls, vintage light fixtures and tables, and antique tile floors. I sat at one of the two-seaters, which I found perfect for working on my laptop while watching people come and go from the shop. I didn't venture into the rear part of the space, but saw a few people go back there to eat food or drink coffee at what I assumed to be larger tables.
Apart from plants and paint, however, what made Undergrowth stand out to me was its selection of coffees and other treats curated by a philosophy of ecological and social sustainability that came through in every aspect, large or small, in the running of the shop - from their sourcing of coffee from family or woman-owned farms or their 50-cent discount for re-using a cup. Not only do they make their own oat milk, but their cow-derived dairy is sourced from Progress Milk Barn, a family-owned farm in McComb County, Mississippi - less than a two hour's drive away.
When I came by, they had four roasts on their shelves that one of the co-owners took me on a tour of: an Agaseke variety sourced from a woman-owned farm in Rwanda, a Costa Rican top-shelf, and your standard Honduran and Guatemalan beans - all of which had some verification of ethical origin. The coffees were relatively inexpensive compared to other ethical varieties I've seen, and were available in 12 oz bags. I went home with the bag of the Rwandan, because I really enjoyed its description as a coffee with a hearty semblance of roasted sweet potatoes balanced with fruitier notes of peach, prune, and lemon.
I had two coffees while hanging out at the shop - a spiced cinnamon-cacao cold brew and an iced americano - and a brownie made with sumac and belgian-swiss ruby chocolate. Both of the coffees were wonderful, and I would recommend either. I especially loved the sumac brownie, which was a hard choice while trying to decide between cookies and cherry-chocolate or cheddar-jalapeno scones.
I also appreciated the kindness of the staff at Undergrowth. They greeted regulars and welcomed strangers - and were incredibly charitable to myself and others who had questions about their coffee or their business. A young woman and a child came in and were greeted by name and kudos on the kid's Lilo and Stitch t-shirt. A couple walked in with a dog, who received a complimentary biscuit for being "not just a good boy, a great boy!" A group of some twenty younger guys, who were playing basketball across the street, were all greeted with offers of water and a place to cool off from the heat. One of the co-owners sat on a bar stool and gave the full history, description and care instructions for one of the plants on the countertop to a curious family. They say that kindness is a virtue that pays dividends, and that principle was evident in both the staff and the people who visited Undergrowth.
I will definitely be coming by again. Undergrowth is in a perfect location on the intersection of Napoleon and Magazine, right next to a park, a bar and other shops and restaurants. I'd bring my friends here, have an interview or meeting here, or recommend it to anyone looking for a welcoming and comfortable space in Uptown.
Say hi to the co-owners if you come through!
