Le Gabriel is a very elegant restaurant located in Bordeaux's beautiful 18th-century Palais de la Bourse on the Garonne River. There is a different dining experience on each of its three levels, with prices increasing each time you climb the stairs. On the ground floor is a café with terrace, the first floor is a bistro, and the top floor holds chef Francois Adamski's flagship restaurant which was awarded a Michelin star just eight months after it opened.
I was shown to a beautiful private dining area with views across the river. There were just three tables, but I was the only diner at this stage. I ordered the degustation menu which at 120 euros cost more than my hotel room.
A little tomato flavoured bread roll accompanied with sea weed butter arrived with my first course - Sturia caviar on a cauliflower and smoked salmon cream sauce, served in the Sturia tin. Lovely combination, with the sauce beautifully offsetting the saltiness of the row.
Next up was seared duck livers on a bed of leeks mashed with oysters and a smear of black garlic purée on the side. The liver was perfectly cooked and the leek/oyster combo worked a treat, despite what you might think.
Razor clams with diced sweet potato, squash and zucchini in tomato and ginger sauce followed. This didn't quite work for me - the clams were a little chewy, and I have a thing about mixing tomato and seafood (like, don't).
Monk fish on a cauliflower puree and coconut, tomato and ginger sauce, sprinkled with little florets of cauliflower and broccoli was next. I really like the firmness of monk fish and this didn't disappoint. Perfectly cooked, very succulent, and although the sauces were quite different, both worked well with the dish.
The Lamb arrived soon after, served with a tomato and Harissa sorbet along with a sauce made from mint and some of the juice from the meat, and a side of chickpeas and capers. I'm not a big fan of chick peas or capers, but the meat was really flavoursome and cooked medium rare as I asked. As with the monk fish, it was the two different sauces that made this interesting. The sorbet added an unusual texture, but the mint/jus sauce is what made it work for me.
By the time they wheeled out the cheese carriage I was about ready to raise the white flag, but who can resist a good French cheese? I limited myself to three wafer-thin slices: a very mild chevre with an almost powdery texture, a mimolette that was similar to Edam or Cheddar but orange in colour, and a very flavoursome blue. As I'd had cheese for lunch it was probably overkill having more for dinner, but they were all good and in true French fashion served without any condiments.
I was well and truly full by now, but somehow I can always make room for dessert. This was a layered affair with lemon cream on the bottom sprinkled with hazelnut strudel crumble and topped with a lime emulsion. Great combination for both flavour and texture and a great finish to a memorable meal.
The food is good, the location lovely (the coloured lights on the opposite bank reflected in the water when the sun went down was magical), the decor elegant and the service impeccable. It's hard to find a chink in Le Gabriel's armour. Probably because there isn't one. read more