Mall-restaurants are an odd thing: big-name establishments belonging to large chains, with menus carrying over-salted or under-seasoned foods, expensive dishes that are not worth their value, the decor usually receiving more attention and creativity than their menus do; yet, these places are continually packed, hundreds of hungry shoppers rushing to snatch a table in what feels like a monopolized dining scene. Fortunately, there exists a minority where this set of unfortunate traits does not apply, a few among the many that decide to rebel and pursue different ideals, restaurants like this Osteria that focus on actually cooking good food and not just cashing in.
Osteria De Il Duomo is the newest addition to Grupo Pasta, a local food group that also owns Il Duomo, Cibbo, and Diavolo. This place was conceived as a combination of the high points of these three restaurants. The result, an elegant restaurant specializing in pizza, pasta, and cuts of meat. The actual result, a surprisingly tasty meal on all fronts. Previous experiences at their other restaurants left little to expect for their large upscale restaurant, but the eatery manages to beat all the odds at the Antea location.
Our evening was full of wine, pizza, and merriment. The meal starts with house-made artisanal bread, followed by Pulpo Inhumido and the Berenjena A La Parmesana. Both are simple, but tasty dishes, full of flavor that opens the appetite for the rest of the meal. A Margherita pizza is ordered for the table and quickly devoured. A slab of meat is set in front of me, covered in a Demi-glaze and sprigs of rosemary. Cooked fairly well and also oozing with flavor, we are ready to declare the meal a success, but decide to have a sweeter finish by ordering a freshly baked cake filled with cajeta.
While the food does not excel at creativity or authenticity, the different flavors and well-seasoned dishes throughout make for a very palatable and enjoyable dinner. One can only hope quality and passion drives this restaurant going forward. read more